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Start of year surf days 2370 |
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| January 2023.. Surf sessions end of month. 23 This year 23 | ||||
| 02..03..04..05..06..08..09..10..11..12..14..15..17..22..23..24..25..26..27..28..29..30..31 | ||||
| February 2023.. Surf sessions end of month.15 This year 38 | ||||
| 02..03..05..06..07..12..13..14..16..19..20..21..24..25..28.. | ||||
| Marts 2023.. Surf sessions end of month. 21 This year 59 | ||||
| 01..02..04..05..07..08..10..13..14..15..16..17..18..20..21..24..25--27..28..30..31.. | ||||
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I started to take surflessons on longboard surfing. With the aim to be
able to make cross step to the nose. It is not easy and after more than
a mont I have not done the first step- We also learn about surf etiquete. And wave reading. Especially I like to get more knowledge about the surfetiquuete. |
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| April 2023 .. Surf sessions end of month. Surf 13 / 72 | ||||
| 01..03..04..05..06..07..09..10..11..12..17..18..19.. | ||||
| I got the idea to cut the nose off a old soft board. And then fabricate a new nose . The board was after 6.6 feet 24 inch wide and 3.5 inch thick. 80 liters I guess. I surf it as a bodyboard, but it paddles very much better than a standart bodyboard. Good for steep take off , crowded surf spots. This board is so easy to surf. I am looking forward to try it out where I can surf along a unbroken wave. | ||||
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| During surfing one day I lost a bit of skin on my arm. After some days out of the water I got som big pieces of plaster that covered the wound when surfing. Out of the water I used a creme named Bephantene plus. I am carefull not to let sea water get to the injury. | ||||
| I have started to travel up the coast. I was also visiting a small surffestival. | ||||
| May 2023 .. Surf days end of month. Surf 16 / 88 | ||||
| 01..08..09..10..11..13..14..16..20..23..24..25..26..27..30..31 | ||||
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From 08 to 17 of May I was in San Vincente. It was raining a lot. I was
in a bungalow and ok. There were manny days where I was surfing the
Paipo board, and I could easily surf the biggest waves we had. It was
sad that our 50 Plus surf group was stopped. I did however meet manny
people , some I already knew, some were new.I On the way back I stopped in Porto Covo where I selebrated my birthday. I also surfed a low water session at Malhao, with 1.8 m wave. That was a bit difficult until I found some shelter by the reef..Then I was quite nice actually. I did of course use the Paipooboard. Back in Sagres there were good waves on West Coast. I then started to think about going to Galicia |
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.JPG) .jpg) .jpg) .jpg) |
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| June 2023.. Surf days end of month. 15 / 103 | ||||
| 05..06..11..12..13..14..16..18..23..24..25..26..27..29..30 | ||||
| During month I drowe to Galicia. Valdevino and Namina and Razo. Quite a bit of rain. Not manny people. Didnt see it all need to go again. | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230614namina.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230616nemina.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230617.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230618nemina1.mp4 | ||||
| July 2023.. Surf days end of month. 27 /130 | ||||
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Mainly Amado. Every morning an early start. 8.30 - 9 in the water.
surfschool are ready around 10.30. It is as if there ar less people this
year. The wind is not so strong during the morning. After surf the small
beach bar is open and serve cofee, pastel de nata and vegetarian burger.
I bring 2 board 100 liter longboard and 80 liter short board / Piapo type. So I can surf until 2 meter set. It is rare it is bigger during the summer. I am trying to do the snake position and guide the board along the wave , and then do a 2 step pop up trying to get the feet to end up un top of the stringer. After that I am supposed to do the cross step, but not there yet. |
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| my_diary_1/2023/230725amado.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230727amado.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230729amado.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/230731amado.mp4 | ||||
| August 2023.. Surf days end of month. 17/147 | ||||
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Start early in the morning. In the water 7 to 8 . Amado
almost every day. less wind and no crowd. One morning I nhad beach alone
for 2 hours. At end of month I started a tent trip to North cost of Spain. |
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| September 2023.. Surf days end of month. 18 /165 | ||||
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I was leaving Sagres 23 August. Camping with my tent in Sitava , Foz and
Rio Sierra in Galisia. Surfing 1 day there. 1 day In Louro and 2 days In
Vadevino. Later 2 days in Vega Beachin Asturien. Then I drove to San
Vicente. Surfing 14 sessions. A Total of 18 surf days. Photos below from san Vicente. Tent on Camping in Galicien Rio Siera |
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| Octobre 2023 Surf sessions end of month. 17 / 182 | ||||
| 04..06.07.08.09..10..11..12..14..15..16..17..18..21..25..28..30 | ||||
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Back in Sagres. Surfing local beaches. Using my Paipo - Body board - Bellyboard. Whatever this thing is called. I cut 30 cm of the tail. Dim now 5.8 x 24 x 3 1/8. More manoevreable. Bought a softtop Flyer 7 X 24 X 4 inch 80 Liter. Tried it out in 1.5 meter. Difficult to turn along wave. Need a cut down. 5.5 to 6 feet seems to be a good size. Paddeling with arms. With flippers 5 feet is probably max. Now trying to increase width. Acording to Jeff interview in mypaipoboards.org, width can be up to 29 inch even 31 inch. My next step for me is 26 inch. I can get a softtop in that width and cut down. Between 26 inch wide and intil 30 inch, where SUP starts. I am not aware of any boards sold commercially. |
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| November 2023.. Surf sessions end of month. . This year 22/202 | ||||
| 02..04..06..07..08..09..11.13..14..16..17..18..19..20..21..22..23..24..25..27..28..29 | ||||
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Surfing beaches around Sagres. Quite often lagos beaches as well. Passed
the 200 Surfsession mark. Got a old SurfTech 22.5 wide board wery cheap. Cutting and renosing is now done in a few hours.havent tested yet. It is for bigger waves, or other to try this type of board. Procedure is. Cut board to required length . Max 6 feet. 2 cuts in a 70 deg angle. Slap on 5 min epoxy glue. Then a high quality sealant that is designed for marine use. Smothen it out with a hand. When dry clean with a cutterblade. Once you have the size that work, then it may be time to consult a shaper. For a nicer looking board. Probable with a full cover on top with padding . Kneeboard style. New Zealand North West has some top Kneeboard Prone board shapers. Kneeonkneeboards has a brand Oceansleds. They seem to fit older surfers, who like to cruise in comfort. there is also a Festival in March on New Zealand . Last 2023. maybee every year. |
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Photo above . My first Paipo board that I made this spring, and later
cut the tail as well. It is now 5.8 long 24 wide and 3 1/2 thick.
Fntastic in messy rippy wave. We have a lot of that. One day I had the whole beach for myself. A nice day with 5 feet wave, but messy from onshore wind. Didnt bother me . If there is a swell with energy enough. I can surf. Prone style. |
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| The simple operation of cutting and covering the cut with 5 min epoxy and sealant. It still need more sealant and final clean up with a cutter blade. But can already be tested as it is. | ||||
| December 2023.. Surf sessions end of month / This year 21 /223 ..2592 from start | ||||
| This month I made one more Paipo board. The
start was a 8 feet 24 x 4 inch Flyer soft top. I cut 2 feet from back of
board. Rest is 6 Feet. The cut was covered with Epoxy glue and then a
sealant / glue. Test of board went well. This is the Paipo board I prefer to use. Moving the fins caused some problems. The screws were not long enpugh. I made quat fin set up. After moving fins 2 times I had a stable boardthat was quite easy to turn as well. With the fins too far forward the board was too eager to turn. |
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| Below 3 video where I surf the 6 feet Paipoboard | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/231222zav.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/240101salema.mp4 | ||||
| my_diary_1/2023/240103ingrinna.mp4 | ||||
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