Diary   2011 - 2


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25July  2011 Monday  Amado.   Back in Sagres   

I was up early. The conditions were not the best and around 11 in the morning it was getting quite crowded. I went back to the camping for a siesta and started again on Aamado beach. Conditions fine and people were surfing until sunset.

Amado beach

Amado beach

26July  2011 Tuesday  Amado and Casteljo.. 

Last night somebody lifted my surfboard from the roof rack while I was eating a burger at the beach restaurant. Today I rented a board to test different boards before I buy another. I am almost sure it is going to be 9 feet long 3 inch thick and 23 inch wide. That is a big plank. I have rented the soft top version to check it out.

This morning at Amado it worked like a dream, catching waves like never before.
I had a evening session at Casteljo


27July  2011 Wednsday  Amado and Casteljo.  The usual  stuff. I did catch some large waves and had a few wipe outs. Then I ordered a 9 feet 2 inch surfboard. I opted for a soft top. Good for crowds. Then I will get my glass board over next time I visit Mallorca, where it is stored at the moment. That is a 9 feet 6 inch long board.
I had a evening session at Casteljo




28July  2011 Thursday  Amado and Casteljo.  Very windy and off shore. I was a bit wary to paddle to far out  because off the strong wind.

In the afternoon the new board arrived. It looks good. I went straight to Casteljo to test it. Very promising.

9 feet 2 inc  23 inch wide 3 inch thick volume 76 liters. Soft top.

The board has some forward rocker.

29 July  2011 Friday  Amado and Cordoma.

In the morning I want to Amado. Catching the most wave of the group in the line up. The late afternoon I was at Cordoma  catching  more wave than everybody else. Yes, the board works well.

30 July  2011 Saturday  Cordoma. 

It was half day off. In the evening I went to Cordoma. Waves were blown out by the wind. It is a bit overcast. The wind chilly. I was the only one at the beach.

Cordoma beach. Not actually crowded.

31July  2011 Sunday  Casteljo Day 412
A very good evening surf. I was able to get to the outside and catch some nice big waves.

01 August  2011 Monday  Casteljo

It was a windy day. Raining as well. But big waves. It was hard work to paddle out. Eventually,  I would just lie in the water, holding the front end of the board and wait for a lull. Crawl onboard and paddle all I could. Push through a few waves, roll myself under the board doing the Eskimo roll. Then when the energy was gone, float in the water, letting the waves roll over me and wait for the next lull.

Casteljo beach today

A surfer at Casteljo beach. It is not me.

02 August  2011 Tuesday  Casteljo
All day surfing. 
03 August  2011 Wednsday  Cordoma
Only few surfers and the waves were good actually.  I will be back tomorrow.

Cordoma beach

04 August  2011 Thursday  Cordoma

I have been surfing 12 days every day. My muscles are tired. Maybee I should take a day off.  There was a little bit of excitement. I went on the outside of the main breaking zone. All of sudden I was surrounded by quite large waves. It could have been fun to try one, but they were breaking in a mess of white water mixed with sand.

05 August  2011 Friday  Cordoma

Thick fog in the morning. I could hardly see the beach from the line up. High tide was at 13.00 hours. At 17.00 hours I tried. Now there was a great big swell. Just the long board type. For a while I had it for myself. Then other surfers came.  I noticed that I was very slow to pop up.
Afterwards I had coffee and a big cake at the beach cafeteria and reading my book.


06 August  2011 Saturday Cordoma  Day 418

A foggy calm morning. Mellow waves. Just right for my long board. The sets came in at 5 maybe 6 feet. I was flying.
I came back in the evening, but got the tide wrong. It was pretty flat. In stead I had the sun set.

07 August  2011 Sunday Cordoma

I start to like Cordoma beach. It is not me surfing , but I was at that spot earlyer.

09 August  2011 Tuesday  Cordoma  and Castelejo

Cordoma was very rough during the morning high water. I went home. Later I had some whitewater racing at low water in Castelejo.
On the way back I made a stop at Maret a. nice clean swell was coming in. Unfortunately it was now getting dark.  Yesterday was day off.

10 August  2011 Wednesday    Mareta beach

Mareta was great this morning. Clean long board swell coming in from South East. Lots of surfers, but this  type of swell is very difficult to catch unless you have a board with amble length and volumen. 

I was in such a rush that I did not warm up enough. After 20 minutes I was down with a bad back pain.

All I could do was sneak back to the caravan . There I started Icing and resting. Popping anti-inflammatory and using same as crème.

In the early afternoon I started massage with a Infra red muscle massage gadget I bought in a sports shop a while ago.  I think I will be fit for fight soon again.

In the afternoon I was almost ok again and went to have a look, to see what I had missed.  The swell was still coming in. It will be difficult not to try again tomorrow.

Mareta beach

Mareta beach

11 August  2011 Thursday   Mareta beach

Swell is still here. I had a try this morning.  And again during the evening

12 August  2011 Friday   Mareta beach
Looks like the last day with swell in Mareta.
15 August  2011 Monday   Cordoma

After a couple of days off, I  was in the water at Cordoma beach. Nice  swell, only it did not last very long. It was a good chance to catch waves, angle to one ore the other side. Look along the wave and that kind of thing.

17 August  2011 Wednsday   Cordoma
Yesterday was day off. This morning I went to Cordoma. Swell was good. I had a few hours surf. Then I had a massage on the beach. Finishing with a coffee and a big cake.

After all that excitement I took the rest of the day off.

18 August  2011 Thursday   Cordoma

Today I had the massage first. Then the coffee and cake. The waves were for long boarding only. Mellow, but big enough. The white water had almost no power. I had everything for myself.

It was bumpy however. Sometimes I got thrown off the board when trying to catch a wave. Most times I managed to get back unto the board. While still gathering speed on the front of the wave. The pop up is a slow thing. First I crawl to my knees. Then one foot as much forward I can manage. A push with the arms and I roll backwards onto my feet. By the time I am standing the wave was either vanishing or I was way in front of the wave, because I had not started turning along the wall yet.

One of the good things about my new board is that I can still stand even when it is very slow going. Sometimes the wave will catch up with me again, and reforming, getting more powerful. There I go, right to the beach. That is a long ride. From the furthest island to the shore.

I am still having my hood and winter booties on. Maybe some people think I come surfing all the way from Greenland. They look impressed, but then again I do not wear my glasses. Maybe they look worried. Because in these choppy waves, trying the keep my balance, I must look like a zombie from the film 'Resident Evil.'

20 August  2011 Saturday  
I am packing. 10 days vacation on Mallorca.  That should be time enough for all broken muscle to heal up.
06 September  2011 Tuesday Day 428  Back in Sagres  

First day out after my return to Sagres.  Big waves at Punta Riva.. My board was pulled out of my hands when I was doing a Eskimo roll for a pretty big wave. I never even made it to the peak. Which was overhead anyway.
Later I had a look at Amado. It looked  good. Tomorrow I will start there

07 September  2011 Wednsday Day 429

First try was at Castelejo. It was difficult to get out so I went to Amado. Here it was now low water and waves not very good. It seems that the wind that have been blowing almost non stop for 2 month, is a lot less now. Still lots of sun shine.
The first autumn storm due to hit us in 4 days. That will be the start of the surf season.

08 September  2011 Thursday  Day 430

A quiet day at Amado beach, above

09 September  2011 Friday  Day 431

I do not know if I am getting better or not. For sure I am getting bad habits. My new board is very stable. I have started to surf the waves lying on the board. Then when it is more convenient I get on my knees and stand up.
The only excuse is that I may not have surfed the waves if I had to do it the proper way.

Amado beach on a misty morning

10 September  2011 Saturday  Day 432

This morning I had a demonstration what surfing a long board is all about. I was at Cordoma. First one out. Great waves for a longer board.
As i started to catch wave other surfers started to come out. One of them was a smallish girl with a sort of long board. She was catching wave after wave, and I started looking and learning.
What was surprising me most is, that she was using very little power to catch the wave. She was however looking a lot at the wave, and she seem to catch waves at the right point , just next to the breaking point. Then she was doing the pop up, the board so high on the wave that I thought the board would not move forward. But it did. Slowly gaining speed, already angling down the wave.

I have been reading so many places that you paddle all you can. So for 431 days I have been paddling all I can. I have shoulders so wide now, that I have angle to get through a normal size door, because all this paddling.

I am paddling so hard that I do not see where i am going, and I do not see how the wave developed.

Looking at this demonstration, with what ease and grace you can catch a wave gave me something to think about.

Cordoma beach

11 September  2011 Sunday  Day 433

The first storm is throwing up 10 feet swell. The West coast is pretty deserted, except Arrifana. It is to difficult to paddle out. And there are very few surfers around that  surf 10 feet waves.


13 September  2011 Tuesday  Day 434

There was a lot of activity today. Clean big swell coming in. Mareta was very good, and many surfers there. I did not surf a lot. It was too crowded for me.

Surfers at Mareta

Later I went to Salema. No surf. And Zavial. Plenty surf. It was good fun to se the surfers tackle 3 metre swell. 

14 September  2011 Wednsday  Day 435
Swell is now less at Mareta. I had a great morning. Catching many waves. Making correct pop up.
15 September  2011 Thursday Day 436

A great day at Mareta beach. The water is warm. You can stay in forever. Easy waves. Lots of beginners. I like that because then I am one of the best.


16 September  2011 Friday Day 437

I started the morning  looking at Beliche, Mareta, Zavial, Amado, Cordoma and Castelejo. It was low water , and I did not find anything I liked.
In the afternoon I did the same and eventually settled for Cordoma. Here it was big mellow waves, just right for a long board. The waves did not have a lot of power and I was the only one that managed to catch waves.
Very few surfers out anyway.
This is 9 days with only one day pauses. My back is telling me it is time to take a rest.

Mellow waves at Cordoma. Some times I surf the wave the proper way, but more often i wait for a big set and then catch the white water.  That is possible with  a board with a lot of volume. I can make it all the way to the beach.

Saturday, Sunday , Monday- day off. Relax and sun bathing.
20 September  2011 Tuesday Day 438

A good day at Amado. I was surfing some big set, nice mellow peeling waves. They came out of nowhere.. After half an hour they did not work any more. My pop up had quite some knee support.
In the afternoon I went to Tonel to have a look.

Tonel . Steep wave survival.

21 September  2011 Wednsday.  Day off

First I went to Amado. Big mellow swell. Sets coming at 2 meters. I tried Zovial. 50 surfers, but hardly any swell. So far no surf. I will try again later.

Thursday. I Checked most beaches on the South coast without finding any good surf. It was mainly a day off
23 September  2011 Friday Day 439

I went straight to Amado. And was disappointed because the waves were just too big. Some surfers were out and they had a good time, but now and again some big sets came in and some had a massive white water rush over 15 seconds.

In stead I just surfed the white water like the surf schools. It ended in a good time. I was the one that could actually get up standing on the board and surf along. First up on the knees, then a little jump and I was standing.
i tried different ways, but the above mentioned method worked best.

An other clip from Amado today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdXtbP6Oe7Q
24 September  2011 Saturday Day 440

First I went to Amado. Quite a few people. Nice big swell and no wind. I was riding some great waves. My style is however questionable. I use my knees. The funny thing is that it works very well.

In  the afternoon I went to Cordoma. Very bumpy and strong current. It was sunset before I left.


Sunset Cordoma

25 September  2011 Sunday Day 441

A very nice day at Amado. Biggish sets and in between lulls so it was easy to get out. In between some very big waves. However I have learned from bad experience how to Eskimo rolls and hold on to the board, and make sure the nose of the board is pulled deep under the wave.

I was surfing the waves easily - But using my knees and then onwards. I think when you are 63 years old you are excused. I even started looking around at the wave while surfing.


26 September  2011 Monday Day 442

Another good day at Amado beach. Waves a little bigger. Some sets what looked 6 feet plus, in between. I think there are nail marks in my board from me hanging on to it as I was being pushed around by some serious white water. I am still using my knees to pop up.

27 September  2011 Tuesday Day 443

Offshore wind at Amado. So it was busy at the places where there was a breaking peak. I was staying away and waiting for the bigger set. They would create a boarder area of surf able wave. At high-water the condition was deteriorating.

28 September  2011 Wednsday Day 444

As you can see on photo above, Castelojo was pretty flat. It was best at low water, and I enjoyed a great deal of waves then.

29 September  2011 Thursday Day 445

Big waves in Mareta. 30 plus surfers out. The waves did not have too much punch however, so they were easy to ride. The short boarders even had trouble catching and. My long board however, did well.

30 September  2011 Friday Day 446

Maeta, Castelejo,Cordoma, Amado and then Mareta again.  It took a bit of driving to find good waves. Eventually Mareta was the best.


Cordoma. Looks very good. My problem was that the waves were 2 - 3 meter high, and a heavy break.

02 Octobre 2011 Sunday Day 447

Mareta had 3 to 6 feet  swell. I surfed the bigger ones. Comfortably with my knee stance. I guess some day I must move on to something more stylish. Or you can say I have invented the worst looking long board style.

03 Octobre  2011 Monday Day 448
Cordoma, only small waves.
04 Octobre  2011 Tuesday Day 449
Amado. Small waves. I was catching the waves. Popping up  ( using knees ) and surfing to the beach.
05 Octobre  2011 Wednsday Day 450

Cordoma, good, but many surfers. Bordeira, looked perfect. I should have stayed, but moved on to Amado. Too small. Then back to Cordoma. Here I found a good spot a little down the beach. I had great waves, and it was only me there most of the time.

Photo  above from Bordeira beach

06 Octobre  2011 Thursday Day 451

Amado beach. It was a medium big day. I had one perfect ride. One mega wipeout and one white water run. Then i called it the day, because it was more and more close out.

Sunday I am flying to Mallorca for 3 weeks. Here the wind is blowing strongly. 

Friday was day off. I bought a new wet suit and started packing.