Diary   2018

 

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January  Sagres  2018.. Surf days 1228
During new year Phillip and family came for a visit. That was a nice break in the daily routine. We managed to find some decent surf and  weather was reasonable with quite a bit of sun shine. We were lucky with some Westerly swell that entered Mareta.
I got to know some van people as well. Mike invited for a great Curry, then everybody took off for El Palmar, some with the intention to continue to Marocco.
During the period I was trying to place an order of a new surf board, first with Lufi in Lisbon, and when that failed I managed to get Barbossa in Arrifana to make me a board. That should be finished in end February.
I bought the surf guide "I love the seaside" . The authors are staying in our condo at the moment. I like this guide because apart from describing the surf beaches; not all of them, but enough, they also guide you to a lot of the surf accommodation and smaller guest houses etc.
Also I got a Quicksilver 4/3 winter suit, super stretch. very comfortable. I replaced my booties for some 3 mm neoprene socks. Works well, it gives a better feel with the board, only sometimes I "double" a toe. That hurts a fair bit.
 Also i started The 100, a more than 50 section 4 season Netflix series. So before I knew it January almost over.
1 st January 7.45 Mareta. A good start of the year.
 
Mareta  11 January
 
Luz 17 January 2018
 
Sagres 25 January
28 Jan
 
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February 2018 Sagres and West Coast .. Surf Days 1243
February seem to be the month with a lot of action. I was surfing the Sagres beaches, but I went to Arrifana as well. That was too big waves however, but I did get into the water.
The next excursion was  to Sao Torpe near Sines. I got the tide wrong. Hw is the time to go. I did see a very nice wave between Sao Torpe and Porto Covo.
The hotel was ice cold, and nothing going on in town.

Back in Sagres I surfed some good waves in Zavial. Some waves I was using the home made easy pop up, and I could see some of the other surfers were a little impressed, because it was close to overhead,

Towards end of month I took a trip to Milfontes. To surf in the river estuary. I figured out that the safest time is Lw. At other times the current can be quite strong. First day was a mess. Current dragging me everywhere. Second day was a lot better. I really liked it there. Hotel had buffet dinner foe 16 Euro. The room was cold and the air con noisy. I brought my electrical blanket and a sleeping bag. However I found out that getting the arms into the sleeping bag as well can be dangerous, as I was about to roll over the side of the bed, with arms stuck inside the bag.
 
7 February. Sao Torpe area.
 
8 Feb. Milfontes
 
21 Feb. Milfontes estuary. Small point breaks. About 3 feet when they are best. I had 1 very long ride.
 
22 Feb. Beliche
 
22 Feb 20218 The end of "Old faithfull"
This is what happened: It was a day with biggish waves. Actually to big, so i decided to find a small wave to get me back to the beach. A suitable wave was arriving, but just before it got to me it hit some current and almost doubled in size. I did not like the sight of it, so decided to get one more deep breath, while paddling for it.

The speed was accelerating fast and next I was diving under water with mouth open. Lots of water entering my mouth, and felt like going into the throat before I got the mouth shut.

Next it was a lot of tumbling around into the now breaking wave. I tried to keep hold of the board. In a powerful breaking wave a lot of air bubbles are mixed in the water, and a surfer without a board will sink towards the bottom. But I lost hold of the board. The whole situation was just becoming too interesting for me.

Just then I could feet " Old faithful " was nudging itself under me, and next we were going full speed towards the shore pushed by a angry small white water wave.

Time for a good deal of sneering and coughing. Next the board, now with a broken back, so the fin did not cut into the sand and stop the board, ran way up on the beach and I was in safety.

I will admit that I was shedding a tear when I left  my old friend, now in 2 pieces, by the garbage bins. And I will admit that I was there the next morning to retrieve one half, with the plan to hang it on the wall in my home. But the collectors had been there, it was gone.

Maybe that was the best. Else It would have ended with me sitting having  long conversations with one half of a old broken surfboard, hanging on the wall, about  the sunny days and the good waves.
 
February 22 Mareta
Feb 27 Beliche By the end of the month the swell turned South West and increased.
 
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Marts 2018 Sagres and West Coast .. Surf Days 1250
02 Marthinal, using the Fatum 7 feet... 03 Mareta, big day. I was using the Fatum board, mainly lying on the board, but also standing up a little...04  First using 10 foot board. Then changed to Fatum, as I was loosing control af  the bigger board...05. Mareta again. Very windy...06. Mareta again on a rainy day...07. ! st day with new 9,2 feet board. So far pleasant surprise. Easy to catch wave even if board has very low rocker. And it is FAST...10. Meia in Lagos. First with long board later changing to Fatum. At the West Coast swell is 5 meters.  I am starting to become fond of my Duke...12. Meia again. Today only 3 feet, but no wind. Later the wind picked up and destroyed the waves.

Saturday 17 Marts I drove to Denia to get the ferry to Mallorca
 
Mareta 1 Marts
Mareta 03 of Marts. By the end of the month all the sand on the beach was gone
New board
08 Marts. The beach gone
11 Big storm again
11 Big storm again
11 Meia Beach surf able.
 
 
27  29  April - 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 May
Sagres and West Coast .. Surf Days 1260
Back from Mallorca it did not take long to get  the board to the beach
27 Surfing Tonel in bumpy conditions 9.2 board
29 Beliche at 07.00 in the morning. 9.2 board
01 Amado. Nice swell of 1,5 meter. Many surf schools, but they stay close to the shore.
02 Amado again 2 to 3 feet.
03 Amado 1,7 meter. I kept in the North end where there were a big mellow wave. Difficult to get.
04 Tonel . Primary swell 2.1 meter  320 deg. Around low water. I paddled out very far and caught a few. Quite exiting. That is max limit for me. Using Torq board 9 feet. Strong rib going back in. Later I surfed Beliche.
05 Tonel again 4 to 6 feet in surf zone. Very nice swell.
06 Cordoama. A local surfer was getting on a 3 meter wave nearby. Impressive sight. He did vanish in a big breaking wave . Then I quit for the day.
08. Tonel. Primary swell 1,2 to 2 meter. Big peeling swell. I will say , we do not need bigger than this. 9.2 glass board. I only got one good wave. Lucky I was on a fast board. As a spectator described it. A overhead very foamy break chasing me.

This is the end of the winter season. We are in our best form after surfing all of the winter, often in difficult conditions. A  lot of the days has not been for for surfers without several years experience. We have been surfing in pairs most of the days, witch is giving extra safety. Apart for a few uncomfortable incidents, I do not recall any dangerous situations. So I guess we are all right.
Tonel 1 May
 
Time to start a trip to North Spain and France 10 of May 2018
 
14 an 15 May
Playa Aquilla Asturias . 15 km west of Avilles
Playa Avilles is a smaller beach in very nice surroundings.  It is North facing and swell can be quite big at times. Mid tide was best. There are some rocky islands that make small point breaks. I was staying at a great small hotel 200 meter from the beach. The hotel had a ample parking where I could change and mess around with boards. Hotel had restaurant as well, so I did not need too do anything. Price for a 2 pers room was 50 Euro.  There is a surf school next to the hotel.
Small hotel 200 m from the beach
Parked at the beach. Bigger parking at the other end.