Diary   2013 - 1


 Home  Photos Videos Surfspots  Boards  Diary    Links

07 January 2013 Monday Day 609 

Back in Sagres. A lot earlier than I thought I would be. I was inspired by the surf on Mallorca . It was just to tough to be standing there looking.

Mallorca, Palma Bay. 25 Dec 2012



08 January 2013 Tuesday Day 610

Zavial. Not many surfers. Good waves. But I have a problem when the extra big sets are coming. They are giving you a good slam when you are in the way. The short boarders are lucky, they can go under. I try turtle roll, but more often than not I do not manage to get deep enough, and I am then caught in the breaking wave.
Also it is draining my energy, every time I have to get on top of the board again.  Eventually I turned tail to the waves and took the big white water ride.
Last time I tried to escape that way, the wave made a small tube. And I was riding the outside. Being thrown around, what felt like a lot.

I know!!. Just relax. Enjoy the time you are airborne. But easier said than done.
Apart from this detail, the waves were very good.

One of the nice waves.

09 January 2013 Wednsday Day 611

I was searching for waves all day. Even Lagos was visited. Then at 16.00 hours nice small waves arrived in Mareta. I was the first one out. Some other surfers having a good laugh. Looking at me dressing up.
The swell , however, got better and better. I surfed together with 5 other surfers, until darkness.

Surfing until sun set.  The small waves we had at Mareta.

10 January 2013 Thursday Day 612

Another great day at Mareta beach. I surfed in the morning and in the afternoon until sun set.
Not many surfers, 3 to be exact. Sunshine all day. 17 deg. No wind..

11 January 2013 Friday Day 613
Mareta again. Nice sunny weather. No wind. Temp 17 deg

I saw the first swimmers today. Just swim suit

14 January 2013 Monday  
I had 2 days off and today only looking around.



Yellow flowers everywhere

15 January 2013 Tuesday Day 614
Mareta. Nice clean swell. The waether is colder: 14 deg. Some sun, but also a rain shower.

Riding the wall

Afterwards ,a happy surfer giving thumbs up to the world.

16 January 2013 Wednsday Day 615

Zavial. It turned out to be  pretty good surf there. A bit of rain and sun, but only little wind. And some other surfers said I was pretty good. Temp 15 Deg.

17January 2013 Thursday Day 616

Zavial. Very good beginner wave. I was having time to look over my shoulder and see the incoming waves, and change my paddling accordingly, and see weather I should go right or left.
Temp 16 deg. A little bit of sun, but then came the rain. only little wind
Quite a bit of surfers in vans. Some of them were starting up bbq party under a big tarp. Everybody chatty. They could not quite figure out how this old man could catch that many waves

21 January 2013 Monday Day 617
Good beginners waves at some South facing beaches. Sunny but only 14 deg.

22 January 2013 Tuesday Day 618

Mareta. I was giving it some thought. The swell was 4 meters outside the bay. The swell rolling into the bay was still powerfull.
I eventually did surprisingly well
. Sitting quite close to the beach, selecting the smaller waves only. The waves steepened up quickly. Normally I paddle all I can, but today I tried just to paddle some few strokes at the right moment. It worked wonders. Instead of starting like a cannon ball, I started down the wave relatively slowly, so I had more time to orientate me and angle in the right direction. I was one of the surfers catching most waves


23 January 2013 Wednsday Day 619

It was Mareta again today. Sort of big swell outside the bay. 4 meter+. The swell in the bay gets very wide, and caution is needed as the swell hold a lot of energy once it starts breaking. Weather was sun and showers. Fresh NW wind and not more than 15 deg.

24 January 2013 Thursday Day 620

Mareta. Only 2 feet waves. I was experimenting to get the best trim on the board. It turned out that it was important to drag the knees up close to the hand position. That way I had the center of gravity at the middle of the board, maybe a bid forward. The board was accelerating fine that way.
We were only 3 surfers. I was catching 20 waves. No 2 was catching 3 or 4. Rain all day. 16 deg.

25 January 2013 Friday Day 621
Today I took some beating in Beliche. 15 deg. Rain most of the day. Photo is from Zavial.


26 January 2013 Saturday Day 622
I counted 30 surfers at Beliche at one time today. It was good conditions. The sand has shifted, I think. I got to go again tomorrow.
I have found one big mistake I am doing. When the wave is approaching I paddle all I can. I don't spend enough time looking back and positioning myself correctly and look what the other surfers are doing.
Different surf teachers mentioned that years ago. I still have a lot to learn. 
Sometimes I get it right. Then it is as if the board starts gliding with only half the efforts.

Beliche dotted with surfers. Temp 16 deg. Sunny, with a bit of clouds.  Next week is going to be a lot of good surfing, and nice weather. I am however going on a vacation to Mallorca on 28 of Jan

05 February 2013 Tuesday Day 623
I am back from Mallorca. Surfing must go on. I had a quiet day at Zavial. Sunshine 15 deg. Fresh NW wind.
06 February 2013 Wednsday Day 623 no surf
Today was just looking. It was the day for the body boarders. Sun 15 deg. Strong NW wind

07 February 2013 Thursday Day 624

Surfing twice today. First Beliche and then Ingrina. Both times good swell. I was knee surfing a lot. Just catching the wave, along the wall a little bit , and out over the top, or leaning into the wave. Sunshine 16 deg. Fresh Northerly wind.

08 February 2013 Friday Day 625

Today I spend a lot of time waiting for the tide to be right for the size of the swell. In the end it turned out to be 2 feet swell. I was the only one surfing. Sun all day 16 deg. Strong Northerly wind.

09 February 2013 Saturday Day 626

Summer is here. I saw the first cycle tourists with t-shirt and shorts. Tonel was busy from the morning. Cordoama saw 3 surfers, taking some beating, when the  big sets came in.
I eventually settled for Beliche. 2-3 feet waves. Sunny and weak wind. I was sitting at the parking at Beliche in the sun reading my book for an hour, after surfing. The nights are cold, down to 5 deg.

Perfect conditions at Tonel


10 February 2013 Sunday Day 627

Zavial. I liked the waves, but we were 4 at the peak, so had to share a bit. Looked at several beaches later, but it was getting cold and overcast. My shoulders are aching and my body feels like a sack of potatoes for many days surfing. Rain tomorrow. Maybe a day off. 16 deg. Sun to overcast. Fresh wind from North West

Dinner today. Half kilo steak. Fried in the new Halogen Oven

12 February 2013 Tuesday Day 628

Mareta. Waves only 2 to 3 feet. I was getting quite a few. 15 Deg, strong wind from North. Showers, but also some sun. 20 surfers at Beliche.

Beliche was too crowded for me


13 February 2013 Wednsday Day 629

Mareta. Only small waves. I did try a new thing. How to make a sharp turn. With my long board, I need to move the back foot towards the fin. I have just started this, but it works well.
For not so sharp turns, I just put pressure on my toes or heels. Often, however this is often not enough to start a turn.
What I have been doing wrong for a long time, is to stand on the board with the legs to close together..

14 February 2013 Thursday Day 630

Zavial. Sun. Weak wind.18 deg. I was sitting in my chair in shorts and enjoying the sun for an hour. Also I surfed. It was not easy waves. I think next time I will try to do some angling during the takeoff.

15 February 2013 Friday Day 631
Zavial. I had the best peak for myself for a while, and managed to catch some bigger waves there.

Surfer starting the bottom turn at Zovial. Get all photos

Zavial today

16 February 2013 Saturday Day 632

Beliche. I did not feel to get into the cold water. It was a overcast day, and cold. No wind.
Eventually I got in the water. I wanted to try a slightly different pop up. It work at the floor back home, but not in the water at all.
The waves were actually very good. I was catching bigger waves, but they were closing out quickly, but I managed to hang on to the wall a bit first.

17 February 2013 Sunday Day 633

Beliche. Choppy waves. I did catch a few. Again I played a bit with moving the feet in position for the pop up. Moving one foot and then the other seem not to work for me. Small jumps , both feet at a time is easier for me. 16 Deg Overcast South West moderate wind.

18 February 2013 MondayDay  634

Mareta.Overcast 15 deg. Week Wind from South. I was really enjoying myself. Perfect waves ( almost ) and only 1 more surfer.. I was surfing, lying at the board ( get your hands off the rail ), Knee surfing  and some proper stand surfing as well. Lots of speed.

A great day. A bit of chill in the air, and rain as well. The water is 16 deg. I have everything for myself.

19 February 2013 Tuesday Day  635 last day surfing this period

Mareta. A very good day. I was catching 20 maybe 30 waves. I made my first ever bottom turn and cutback. I could place my back foot right on the @sweet point@ and swing the board 90 Degree to a full stop. Thursday 21 Feb, I go to Mallorca for a week.

Sufers at Mareta

A nice sunny day.

03 March 2013 Sunday Day  636, first day surfing this period

Mareta. Sun and 18 and deg. Waves a bit difficult. I had a look at Tonel later. Biggish waves, 10 surfers. Then I had a look at Cordoama. It looked good, but only 1 surfer out. I arrived 02 Mar fr5m Mallorca.



04 March 2013.

Rain and stormy weather. Difficult to find a surf able spot, so I stayed ashore.

A rain bow over Mareta beach

Sagres fishing harbour


Thursday. I am still shore bound because of waves are too big. There are however surfers out. Some vans full, have come down from France to enjoy the spring weather and waves

It looks easy enough.

Saturday and still shore bound. According to wind guru 5 meter swell at Capo san Vicente. I found myself at GATH surf helmet. I am ready. It is very light weight. Now I need some nose protection. Because that nose is sticking well out in front.


The last blow snatched about a meter of the sand at Mareta.

10 March 2013 Sunday Day  637

Surfing twice today at Mareta. I felt that I was doing quite well actually. The Gath helmet is GREAT. Very comfortable. It is specially for surfing. Very light.

11 March 2013 Monday Day  638

Surfing twice today at Mareta. May bee catching 20/30 waves.  Including some that I only a couple of days ago would not have tried. May bee I am having one of those leaps  in skills that happens now and again.


Wednsday. No surf for 2 days. Car had to go for service. I thought I could just catch some wave today, but the waves looked a bit to big for me. I did manage to get a few shots of a long boarder take off.

Get all photos

14 March 2013 Thursday Day  639

First I surfed Zavial. Later Beliche. I am starting to look into what I am actually doing , instead of paddling all I can when I see the wave coming. Like this 2 feet wave I got just right, using only a few paddle strokes to get me going along the wall, with great speed.

15 March 2013 TFriday Day  640

Beliche. Just small waves . I am trying to catch  the waves with just 3 strong paddle strokes. Just liker my surf instructor explained 5 years ago. And training to catch the wave at the steepest point.

17 March 2013 Sunday Day  641

Yesterday I was relaxing. Today I was catching at least 20 good waves at Mareta. Rain half of  the day, but mild, 18 deg. Again I was trying to catch the wave with less paddling.

18 March 2013 Monday Day  642

Zavial. Catching many waves, during 2 surf sessions. I think it was to much surfing, spending to much energy. I was very tired afterwards.

20 March 2013 Wednsday Day  643

Yesterday I was relaxing. Today surfing Mareta twice. Very good waves. But quite steep sometimes. I moved a little back on the surfboard. Then I could more easy turn the board along the wall before I started the pop up. Which is still a knee pop up, by the way.
It worked very well.

A nice sunny day

21 March 2013 Thursday Day  644

The photo is from Codoama. Very nice waves. I was a bit tired from yesterday, so I only did a little easy surf in Mareta during the afternoon. I moved the surf fin 1 cm forward. To make the board a bit more lively.. Semi overcast. Moderate South East wind. 17 Deg.

22 March 2013 Friday Day  645

The offshore waves are in the 4 to 5 meter range. I ended up at Meia beach in Lagos. Even if it is well sheltered there , some big sets came in. And breaking fairly close to the beach. The waves were friendly. That is what I call pealing waves. They start breaking from the top, and the foam slowly expand down the front of the wave. I surfed a couple of these, but the power in the waves were brutal. After a short hour I called it the day.  Sunshine 18 deg. Strong West wind.

23 March 2013 Saturday Day  646

Today I tried Mareta. The waves were complicated. Manny surfers.  Some rain some sun. 15 deg. Moderate wind from NW.

After surf I had a café at Last Chance cafe. Great view, great Wi Fi

24 and 25 March 2013 Sunday and Monday  Day  647 and 648

Mareta. Today was perfect. I was riding the wall at full speed.  I am learning in turbo mode. Catching many waves every timeI am out.

26 and 27 March 2013 Tuesday and Wednsday Day  649 and 650
Mareta again. Some sun, some rain. Mild 18 deg.

Easter is here with many surfers. This is during the evening. At noon we were topping 40 surfers.

28 March 2013 Thursday  651
Mareta . Many surfers because it is a holiday. Most sun 18 deg.
Friday rain and more rain
03 April 2013 Wednsday  652

During the Easter holiday it was very crowded, so I took some time off. It is good for the muscles to relax now and again.
Today I was back in the soup. SW wind. Some sun and 18 deg. It was bumpy at Mareta. I was  catching 4 waves. One I was on my knees and it ended up with a great wipe out. One I was staying on my belly on the board, or more in the Copra position. When I had the board running along the wall I got to my feet and had a very long run.
The last wave was fairly steep. I was lying on the board, cutting into the wall. As it started to break I went shore side. Surprised how fast the board responded to the turn. Mind you I have moved the fin a little bit forward.

Some wind surfers were out as well

04 April 2013 Thursday  653
Mareta. Hardly any surfable waves. Strong SW wind. Rain shovers.
05 April 2013 Friday  654

I was down looking at Mareta beach several times. Wind and swell from NW, so the swell that did turn into Mareta, had a good off shore wind. Manny surfers. Sunny all day.

Eventualy at 18.00 hours, I decided to get in. The swell was now not very big, say 2 feet, but clean. I enjoyed myself ,and was the last one out of the water. By then the temperature had dropped to 12 deg, and an icy cold wind was sweepin the bay.


Last one out of the water, just before sun set.

06 April 2013 Saturday  653

Today we had sun all day, but with a chilly North wind. I was surfing Beliche. Everybody were out and the surf beaches crowded.

Beliche Saturday morning

07 April 2013 Sunday  654

The surfing at Beliche was not too exiting. The day started cold, only 12 degree. Late afternoon was 19 deg and sun. That saved the surfing trip. During the day I was looking at the West coast beaches.

The evening meal was more exiting. The Brocoli was in the oven 20 minutes at 250 deg. Once at the plate I poured some olive oil on top , and a bit of salt. Slices of orange kiwi and tomato. A tin of tuna as well. The dessert was a mango. The drink was cranberry juice.

Broccoli in the halogen oven

The finished dish. I am not to fond of tin tuna fish, but that was I had. You can not see the kiwi, but it is there.

View along the West Coast

Caravan build onto the chassis of a truck

Surfers near Cordoama.

08 April 2013 Monday  655

Beliche. Weak wind. 20 deg. sun and clouds during the day. Perfect waves.  I went twice Maybe catching 30 waves during the day.


09 April 2013 Tuesday  656
Beliche again. SW wind, making the waves irregular. The morning was cold. Later sun and 20 deg.
10 April 2013 Wednesday  657

I was looking at Beliche. Waves were too big for me. Then I settled for Mareta, which was fairly good. I was surfing many waves. The other surfers came to my part of the beach when they saw I was catching wave. Then I went to a different place. The same thing happened. Eventually they realized that I had a  board with more volume could catch waves they could not. Then they drifted off, and I had a section for myself.
Overcast most of the day, but mild. You can feel the winter is over. March was the mot rainy month since 1946. The water reservoirs are full to the brink.
Tomorrow cleaning and packing. Then from 12 April, 3 week vacation on Mallorca




02 May 2013 Thursday  658

I returned to Sagres yesterday 1 My.. Surfed today in Tonel. Many surfers, and good waves. I was not doing very well.
Besides I lost my sea spec sun glasses, with graduated lenses.
They are hard to be without once you get used to them.
Also the dentist told me I had a tooth that needed to be pulled out. The second last wisdom tooth.


03 May 2013 Friday  659

A great day. I was surfing twice at Tonel. 3 to 4 feet swell. Very little wind. As you can see on the photo, I was the last one leaving. Sun all day.

04 May 2013 Saturday  660

Another good day at Tonel. Lots of sun. Calm winds and 4 feet swell. Could not be better. I was heading for the beach again, but found that I had forgot the wet suit. I almost jumped in without.

Tonel. Sun and great waves for my long board.

05 May 2013 Sunday  661

The West coast almost flat. Eventually I settled for Tonel. Bumpy, but at least wave.  There was one more surfer. He was having a hard time trying to control his board. He managed to stand on the board 1 sec before he fell.

He paddled over and said: " I saw you last Octobre, and  thought that if an old man like you can surf, then I can learn it easily, but I think I was wrong! "

After Tonel, I went straight to Mareta and continued there. We started out only 2 surfers. Me and a traveling surfer that has been here all winter. Eventually a small crowd turned up.

I felt that I was doing quite well today. Only out of the water for 2 hours and already looking forward for surfing again tomorrow.



06 May 2013 Monday 662

Tonel again. Morning and evening session. Sunny up to 25 deg. Weak wind. Especially the evening session was good. Very long waves, so I could train a bit of turning the board, and also stepping a bit forward and aft.

07 May 2013 Tuesday 663
Tonel. Big swell. Cool morning with overcast. Later the sun came and almost 25 deg. Weak wind.

Some sets came  that  scared me a bit, but then I  found that they did not have too much power.

08 May 2013 Wednsday 664

Zavial. Good waves. Cloudy morning. Sunny afternoon. 23 Deg. Moderate wind. I tried again late afternoon, but now the waves were closeouts.


Couple of surfers heading for a collision. The surfer standing up has right away. In my opinion.

And they did, eventually

09 May 2013 Thursday 665

Zavial again. Great swell. 24 Deg. Sun all day. Moderate Northerly Wind. After the first surf, I had a burger. Then a couple hours waiting and the tide was right for more surfing. When I returned back to the camping I was well tired.

12 May 2013 Sunday 666

I had a wisdom tooth pulled Friday. After a few days off I went to Amado today. I was windy and choppy. Very exhausting way of surfing. I did not get to the outside, but used some smaller sections in between. Sun all day 2o Deg. Night down to 13. Fresh North West wind

13 May 2013 Monday 667
Tonel twice. No wind. Wavecount for the day more than 20. Sunny 24 Deg
14 May 2013 Tuesdaaay 668
Mareta. Only small waves. Sun 20 Deg. Very windy, from NW

Mareta Beach

15 May 2013 Wednsday 669

Early start in Zavial. Waves 3 feet. I was enjoying some good rides. After an hour waves started to close out.  20 deg. Rain in the morning. Later sun. Very windy, NW.

16 May 2013 Thursday 670

9 o´clock start in Zavial. First one in the water. Catching  some nice rides.  Again surfing at 17.00 hours. Wavecount more than 10 total. Cool day with lot of wind and mix clouds.


17 May 2013 Friday 671

Beliche. Somewhat bumpy, but swell had right size for me. I could catch them. The short boarders had problems.Some rain during  the morning. Sunny afternoon. 18 Deg and strong Westerly wind.


18 May 2013 Saturday 671
Beliche twice. Morning and late afternoon. Freezing cold at the parking in the fresh NW wind during the morning. Rain as well. The afternoon the temperature may have reached 20 deg, and the sun came out. The waves were just right for me.
19 May 2013 Sunday 672

Tonel. Very bumpy and biggish waves. Temp 18 deg and wind from NW. Once in the soup I was enjoying myself. And I had everything for myself as it was 19.00 hours.

20 May 2013 Monday 673
Tonel. Windy and a lot of white water.
21 May 2013 Tuesday 674
Tonel. A lot of white water. Very windy.
22 May 2013 Wednsday 675

Tonel, with a start at 9.00 hours. the waves break almost at once, wery little clean wave. However I was studying a surf teacher that was doing classess. He managed to find some grean wave. Then I started to use that spot. Quite a difference. All of a sudden I could control my board a lot better..

 I came to remember my surf teacher Chriss on Fuerte. He used to say. " Do not paddle for the big waves, wait for the small or mediom with the good shape. "

Chriss making a demo. Flag beach Fuerte.

Tonel beach

23 May 2013 Thursday 676

Tonel twice. Some wind but still the waves were good. 4 to 5 feet without too much power. Good for long board. Mostly overcast. Air 19 / 14 deg. Water 15 deg.

24 May 2013 Friday 677
Tonel twice. Reasonable swell. Some wind. Sun all day. 20 deg.

Tonel today

25 May 2013 Saturday 678

Tonel, but only one time today. Sun all day. Temp 20 / 13. NW moderate wind. Some nice clean waves and only a few people.

26 May 2013 Saturday 679
Tonel. Waves too small. Fresh NW wind. Tp 19 max 13 min
28 May 2013 Saturday 680
Temp  19 max 13 min .Clear. Fresh NW wind.
I setteled for Amado. There I surfed some of the biggest waves so far this year.

2 photos from Amado today.

29 May 2013 Wednsday 681

Waves 2 m. I was trying Beliche. Difficult conditions. You saw a lot of holiday surfers trying to take off on vertical waves, and vanish in white water. A girl that went for a walk in the "shallow "  water was caught by a wave and dragged out away from the beach, but brought back to safety. I managed to surf 1 wave. Before that I was tumbled around in breaking waves, hit by my board several times.  Temp 20 max 13 min. Sun all day. NW fresh wind.

02 June 2013   Start of  vacation on Mallorca
09 June 2013  Sunday 682

I managed to get a surf day in Paguera. With my ULI inflatable board. It is not  a very good board, but I did manage to surf standing.  http://www.uliboards.com/

Photo from 2007. Uli board to the right.

10 June 2013  Monday  683
Paguera again. I had the peak alone most of the day. Maybe catching 30 waves....

21 and 24. June 685

Renting a SUP at www.paddlesurfmallorca.com.  It is nice to paddle around during the morning before the thermal wind starts. The board was 11.6 x 36 x 4inch 6.

25. June 2013 Tuesday 686
SUP on 12 feet x 32 inch x 4.7 inch board

Continue to next page