Diary   2015 - 1

 

 Home  Photos Videos Surfspots  Boards  Diary   Links

06 January  Sagres  Surf day 865

I am back from Mallorca. Today was only small swell, but it suited me fine.

 
Tonel Sagres
 
08 January  Sagres  Surf day 866
Zavial. A nasty steep shore break. I then started surfing  the white water. That worked very well, and we ended up being  several more using this trick. Mean while the young short boarders  were being beaten in the close out shore break.  Great sun shine and pleasant temperature. Only little wind.
A quiet spell
 
10 13 14 16 January  Sagres  Surf day 870
Surfing at several beaches around Sagres. During  the 15 the the sunny weather stopped and gale force winds and rain hit us. Together with low temperatures.
12 jan  6 Feet at Tonel. Not for me, but fun to look at.
  
13 jan Mareta nice and sunny.
15 jan
16 jan  A little swell is reaching Mareta
 
18 19 January  Luz  Surf day 872
I had 2 days great surfing at Luz beach. 2 - 3 feet clean swell. just the way I like it
 
30 January  Can Pastilla Mallorca  Surf day 873
6 feet swell. The photo is from a couple of days later. The channel between Menorca and Mallorca had a new record of 8.3 meter. 23 Jan I went to Mallorca 11 Feb I flew back to Portugal.
 
12 13 February  Amado beach Portugal  Surf day 875
2 days with sun and 3 feet swell at Amado.
Amado beach looking South
 
16 February  Mareta beach Portugal  Surf day 876
About 10 surfers. Long intervals between the usable waves. I was the one catching most wave, by far. Sun , but kold, 14 deg.c
 
17 February  Mareta beach Portugal  Surf day 877
This is actually Beliche. Quite nice, but already from morning many surfers.
 
18 February  Mareta beach Portugal  Surf day 878
A splendid afternoon. 4 to 5 feet swell. I was doing quite a few pop up in 1 sweep. The rest of the time I just get to my feet, the best I can. Still having a problem catching the wave at the right place. During the day I do small sessions of stretching & moving the neck, back and hips. It seem to be a good way to avoid back and neck pain. The photo below is Mareta beach at sun down. Several surfers still out there.
 
19 February  Mareta beach Portugal  Surf day 879
Some set up to 6 feet. I was surfing 2 waves, doing pretty well. Then It was becoming too crowded, and I was washed up on the beach pretty exhausted.
 
24 February  Luz beach Portugal  Surf day 880
This is a pretty good place when waves on the West Coast are 4+ meters
 
27 February  Ingrinna beach Portugal  Surf day 881
Very windy. A bit scary actually. The only other beach was Beliche, but it was packed.
 
28 February Zavial Ingrinna beach Portugal  Surf day 882
First i did a stupid thing. At Zavial I was trying to surf the shorebreak at low water. The wave was actually a closeout . Breaking almost immediately. I got caught in the breaking wave and was hit twice by my fin. Nothing serious, but it was a reminder.
Then I was off to Ingrinna. Small nice long board waves.   3 photo below.
 
Leaving Portugal 3 Marts 2015 driving to Coniil de Frontera at Costa de Luz
 
5 Marts  Conil de Frontera beach Spain  Surf day 883
Nice warm afternoon and a reasonable swell.
 
6 Marts  Conil de Frontera  Surf day 884
Very windy. No fun at all.
 
8 Marts  Fuente de Gallo beach Spain  Surf day 885
The best surf day this winter. No wind and a long board swell of 5 feet. I had a peak all by myself. Further down the beach there was a point break that I need too check out an other day. Later I came back to sea the sun setting. By then the swell was down.
 
9 Marts  Conil de Frontera Spain  Surf day 886
Another good day. Today I was using a wave chart that shows the energy of the waves. The energy was 300 KJ. I then checked energy at Beliche . it was 700 KJ. It is considered that inexperienced surfers should stay with less than 250 KJ. More than 500 it becomes dangerous ( for older and inexperienced )
A Nazare it was 3 meter and 3000 KJ.
 
10 11 Marts  Conil de Frontera Spain  Surf day 888
2 more good days. Wave size about 3 feet, and energy about 200 KJ. Sunny and mild. Some wind during the afternoon, else calm.
 
13 Marts  Conil de Frontera Spain  Surf day 889
Today I looked under the surf board. The gliding surface was dirty and sticky in places from old wax. I cleaned it and then polished the surface. What a difference. Where i before had to paddle hard  to catch even a good wave, now with very  small waves, I could catch them easily. The speed of the board was much better as well.
 
14 15 Marts  Conil de Frontera Spain  Surf day 891
Saturday the 14, was good surf during  the morning. I was back during the afternoon for more. Sunday was closeout. But had I waited some longer it would have been better. ( photo below )
It looks like a good break, but the wave will only hold for 5 sec. I surf straight down, trying to get the breaking white water behind me. Carefully selecting the smaller waves.
 
 
The 19 of Marts I continued in direction of Tarifa and continued along the Med coast until denia.  It had started to rain, and it rained for more than a week. No surfing at all.
campinginfo   Description of the camping trip with camping site info.
    
10 April  Denia Spain  Surf day 892 and 893
Almost a month since last  surf. Here there is a bit of chop wind swell. It was nice to get in the water again.
 
27 April Can Pastilla Mallorca 894
This time a year swell is not frequent on Mallorca. I had some luck and got a chance to test my Panic Point surf board, that I will bring along to France in end of May.
 
16 17 21 May Son Serra Mallorca  Surf Day 897
A Mistral turned up. Lasting so far a week. Some days are pretty good, other are too small. Tomorrow I will try again
The beach of Sa Marina with 2 HD
Riding some good wave at Sa Marina
 
30 31 May 1 June France Saint Giron Beach  Surfday 899
Today , 30 May, I arrived to France, after a crossing  with car and caravan from Denia in Spain.
These 3 days were with about 1 m swell. Excellent for me. Then 2 m, and more swell arrived and almost no surfers went for several days.
The camping
The life saving zone
From the biggish days
 
5  6 June France Saint Giron Beach.  Surfday 901
Swell is now smaller and I am surfing again. Often two times during the day.
 
7  8  9 June France Saint Giron Beach.  Surfday 904
The last 2 days have been very good. Big sets, may bee up to 6 feet, but not with too much power. Energy around 100 KJ. Now, there is a lot of white water when the waves are breaking, and a bit of a struggle to keep to the surface if I lost grip of the board. I have the life west on, and that is added weight.
I then realized that I was more comfortable if I inflated the west partially. This works very well. I float high in the water, and I am not a duck diver anyway.
I dare not stand up right away after I catch the wave. If I fall and the wave breaks, it will be a bad situation with me sinking into the white water, so I "boogie board" the first part. Off course If I got the wave right this problem would not be there, but I am not good at that.
The panic Point long board is great for turtle rolls. It is very flat in the nose and offer only little resistance. I fet comfortable through even the biggest waves.
 
10 11 13 14 15 17 18 19 20 June France Saint Giron Beach.  Surfday 913
Especially the 11 th was a very good swell. Sets of almost  6 feet. Weak offshore wind. I inflated the surf vest partially again, and it works very well. You get rid of the fear of sinking into the white water.
The 13 th was a beautifull morning, with silky 4 feet swell. Good for practicing pop up.
14 and 15 was small wind generated waves. I found that popping  up without a good steep wall of water, is difficult. There I prefer to use my knees. Big green waves takes les paddling and it is easy to pop up as the board is falling away under you, so you only have to pull the legs up under you.
17 th small wind generated waves, and quite a bit of wind.
18 th I was out during the morning, but waves too big and tide too low. I looked again in the afternoon, but it looked like messy big waves.
19 th. Surf during the afternoon. Quite big waves. At close to high water it was difficult to get on to the beach, and I do not know the best way to do it. 
20 th.  brilliant day. waves up to 6 feet. My surf life west is down for leaks, so I am extra careful. Surfed during the morning and again during the afternoon. During the afternoon , swell was less, and I got some pretty nice waves.
Photos from Saint Girons Beach
 
08 August Denmark Cold Hawaii.  Surfday 914
After a b long time, I am back in the water at Cold Hawaii. Also called Klitmoeller. Wave not very good. Too small actually. Bought a surf exercise program from www.surfbodysoul.com
 
10 - 12 August Denmark Cold Hawaii.  Surfday 916
Only small waves today. The wind tend to die away during the evening. That is a good time to go. The negative is that you are surfing on to a stone reef with only half meter of water.
On the 12 th it was NW wind, but waves could have been bigger.
 
26 August Domberg Zeeland Holland  Day 917
Not a bad place. Parking right at the beach. After the golf course. Only few surfers, mind you waves were pretty small.
Beach 3 km South from Domberg.
 
2 September France Saint Girone Day 918
Swell was actually quite big as it was high water, but I just had to try. Had a few waves. Then I was getting worried about getting back onto the beach, where I have been hammered a few times before. But it went well.
 
3 September France Saint Girone Day 919
I was looking in the morning . 50 surfers at least, and no surf. Then I was trying at 19.00 hour. Now only few surfers left and small surf. Surprising I had many rides . My 9.6 glass board is very good for these conditions.
 
Oyambre Spain North Coast. Surf day 920 - 21 - 22 - 23 - 24 -25 - 26 -27 - 28 - 29
I am doing a one week surf course with www.surfnsoul.com. And the week end also. Start monday 7 sep.
It is pleasant weather with sun and 25 deg C. September is a good month at this location. In between i was surfing from the local beach.
From the beach near San Vicente de Baquera
From my surf school lessen. Friday. Saturday was even bigger waves. But not  so clean..Sunday big waves as well. Video from sunday. 

https://youtu.be/Eh_zn0IL5Xo

 Monday 14 I was surfing by myself. Still nice big waves.
Tuesday  15,  pretty big waves.  Wednsday and Thursday, waves becoming smaller again.
The weather was becoming colder wile I was there and some rain as well. It was caused by a local weather phenomena. In the mountain wind up to 100 km an hour.
 
23 September Portugal Sagres Day 930
Tonel beach was the best choice, but a bit crowded. The sand is back. Temp 20 - 25. Coldish NW wind. Sunshine every day since I arrived to Portugal 20 Sept.
 
24 September Portugal Sagres Day 931
A splendid day. Surfing all sorts of waves. Wiped out on some. A good deal of wind mess up, but a good ground swell as well. Sunny with a cool wind. Pleasant weather.
 
25 September Sagres Day 932
I was surfing the South end of Tonel. It was time for using the sunhat, which turned out to be very comfortable. i was sort of enjoying myself. Then some "expert" surfers turned up and destroyed the peace.
 
27 September Sagres day 933
North end of Tonel beach. Unfortunately waves breaking too close to beach i did make some good pop up  though. During the evening another surf, but the waves not very good. And very small.
 
28 September Sagres Day 934.
Swell waas  starting at Mareta. I was one of the first ones there. 3 to 4 feet  waves breaking close to the beach. Not  safe as there were a lot of people on the beach, getting their feet wet.
 
 
29 September Sagres Day 935
Codoama. Only very few people. But then a surf school turns up. 2 to 3 feet waves offshore wind. Very nice conditions. Especially after I moved along the beach, away from the main section. There I found a lot better waves, and I had all  the beach for myself for a kilometre.
 
30 September Sagres day 936
First looking at Cordoama but not looking as good as yesterday. Ended up at Tonel..again. Had  a quiet spot at South end of beach.
 
01 October sagres day 937
Great day at Tonel. Quite big. 3 to 5 feet. i was sitting with a small group just South of island. Then I noticed, that even being high water, it was easy to get back to the beach, without being hammered.
 
02 october sagres Day 938
Good wave count. Difficult to find a wall, but having fun anyway. there is a video from today.  https://youtu.be/wty8WZmOprU
Until now  the weather has been sun every day. Water is 20 Deg C. Unfortunately now there is some rain arriving and 2 to 3 meter waves. It is the old Hurricane Jorquim that has now travelled across the ocean, and is landing in UK
04 October Sagres Day 940
An afternoon surf at Tonel. Getting ready to fly to Palma the 9 th.
 
21 October Sagres Day 941
Landing at Faro airport 19 of October. There is a low pressure near by causing rain and strong wind. However today sunshine again and surf at Tonel. Quite nice actually. Manny surf schools and travelling surfers. I was getting many waves and doing correct pop up.
 
22 October Sagres Day 942
Codoama beach. Only small waves, but nice and clean. Found a peak with nobody else. But  of course, as I was catching waves, slowly 5 more trickled in.
That is what the sky looks like in unpolluted area.
 
24 October Sagres Day 943
Tonel beach. I got myself  a new wet suit. Nice and warm. It is a discount brand, be interesting to see how long it will last. Now I am ready for the winter. The waves were  too big, so I was surfing white water.
The weather is with frequent rain, but mild. 20 deg C
On the beach with the new suit.
 
26 Oct Sagres Day 944
Sunny day at Tonel. I was too hot in my  new wet suit. Then I looked up the sea water temp, and it is almost 20 deg C. Due to a lot of Southerly winds lately. Only managed to surf some white water.
Surfing 2 feet white water , on 3 feet of water depth with life west . What can go wrong??
 
31 Oct Sagres Day 945
Today Mareta. Nice sunny day. I paddled over to the next bay, where it was more quiet. It is hard to find good surf at the moment. On the west coast it has been between 2 to 4 meters for several days. I have not been idle. On the days with no surfing I have been biking 10 to 15 km.
Mareta
Punta Riva. From bike cycle trip the other day
Tonel yesterday
Tonel 3 day ago.
 
03 Nov Sagres Day 946
I am back at Mareta. Very nice small waves. 20 Deg and some sun. I have lost 2 Kg of weight. It is easier to pop up when the belly is not in the way.
 
18 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 947 
I arrived the 16 th. Waves are pretty big. Today I was only surfing white water. However the weather is sunny and warm.
19 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day  948
Surfing twice at Tonel. Only white water again. My suit , 5 mm , is far to warm, as the weather still sunny and worm. I am looking for a 3 mm.
 
20 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 949
I got a Xcel 3 mm. Luckily another sunny day, so I went to Ingrinna. Perfect waves there. Suit is very fine.
 
22 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 950
I am back at Tonel. The temperature has dropped 10 deg, so now it is time to 5 mm and Clarke surf vest. I feel a bit heavy with all that gear on. It was a great surfing day. Waves up to 5 feet. Sunny as well.
 
23 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 951
Tonel. Today I compared the surf forecast from different web sites, and find that the column in Magic Seaweed in left side does not correspond to forecast in the other sites I use.
Today the forecast was 2.5 meters in mid column of seaweed and in wind guru and surf/forecast. In left column in magic seaweed it was 0.8 / 1.2
Energy from surf/forecast was 1200 kj
I thought it was a bit rough, but managed to catch quite a few waves. The biggest ones I would let start breaking, and then try to catch the broken wave , preferably at the sholder.
What it takes is that the wave breaks nice and pealing from the top, and not as a plunger.
 
24 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 952
Tonel, and smaller waves today. Sunny day. Still in 5 mm. very comfortable
 
25 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 953
Tonel. Only small waves. In order to catch anything I over work and end up with a back ache. Wonder how I will feel tomorrow. But for sure no surf during a couple of days.
That was 7 days surfing in 8 days. Time to get on the weight. I have lately increased protein intake to 120 gr a day. I am on 1900 kcal a day on a rest day which  is 250 less than burning.
28 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 954
Sunny day at Tonel with small waves. I was cycling 15 Km during the morning and felt super good. BUT, I think more days recovering would have been a good idea.
The 29 th Tonel. Zoom and you will see a body boarder. Interesting how the back wash from rock is creating a point break.
30 Nov 2015 Sagres Surf day 955
A back cracking day at Tonel with peaks that could have been 6 feet. A few days rest needed after this magnificent surf day.
 
 
05 Dec 2015 Sagres Surf day 956
It ended up being 4 days rest. Today Mareta again. I was feeling good and popping up without effort. The last week I have been very careful to eat lots of protein and stretch a lot, as well as some pop up simulation exersizes.
I have noticed over several years , that when I come back to surfing after a week or so. Then I do well the first day. Second day less. And then it is downhill. Normally it ends up with some back pain as well, sometimes to the extent that I am worried that I will not be able to crawl onboard the airplane.
I am now trying to address this with rest days and better food.
 
07 Dec 2015 Sagres Surf day 957
Mareta again. About 40 surfers, but I managed to catch a few good waves anyway. Photo below is the best take off of the day.
I am surfing every 2 day. Every day makes my muscles weaker and weaker, and I eat 120 gr of protein every day.
 
09 Dec 2015 Sagres Surf day 958
Mareta. Water is still warm. With my winter suit on . 5 mm.
 
11 Dec 2015 Sagres Surf day 959
Tonel. It looked like easy waves from thee shore, but the sets were quite power full. I managed well. it seem that my eating and rest plan is working. I had the heavy winter suit on and surf west, which is anoter kg or two .Only two surfers to start. Later some more arrived. But not more than ten.
That is the last surf day in Portugal this year. Sunday I fly to Palma