Diary   2021

 

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Start of year surf days 1896.

January   2021.. Surf sessions end of month 1917
The first day surfing was 3 of January. There are a lot of other surfers around, but I managet to find a decent wave in the far end of the beach.
03..04..05..06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..16..18..21..22..23..24..26..27..30..31.
Lockdown again, However we can do sport and surfing is included. Not everywhere, but in our county it has been possible .
We did have some nice sunny days during January. But also a lot of rain.
February  2021.. Surf sessions  end of month  1925
02..10..16..22..23..26..27..28
A lot of rain during the month. I broke my Noose Secret LUFI longboard . Had it repaired, but it feels a little different now.
Also the Magic needed to be patched up. There were 10 small holes. many days the waves were to big. Instead I started cycling. 40 km trips.
 
Marts 2021.. Surf sessions  end of month.   1952
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22..23..24..26..27..28..29..30..
During month I joined a facebook group for surfers over 70 years old. Within 2 month it had 700 members.
April  2020.. Surf sessions  end of month.  1983
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19..20..22..23..24..25..26..27..28..29..30
This spring I broke 2 of my long boards. They were repaired again, but it is not the same.
 I am using the 10 foot LUFI a lot now. It is heavy, so I have made a small trolley for it. Also I have started to surf without socks.
Makes it a on the board lot easier to "walk". I have also made a exercise stand in the apartment, so I can practice cross step.
my_diary_1/2021/VID_20210427_212633.mp4 
Video show how it works, Under the board there are some strips of soft foam madras material.
I try to walk along the board without the edges of board touch floor. Better use a old board in case the foam make pressure dents.
 
 
May  2021.. Surf days  end of month. 2013
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30 surf sessions this month, and I passed the 2000 mark. However I am in a bit of in the doldrums.
Then at the end of the month i had visitors. i rented a 8 feet x 25 1/2 x 3 3/4  with a volume of 98 liters. It was so easy to catch the waves.
Easy to surf with a crowd around. I started to think, maybe an 73 year old surfer need a lot volume and board with.
My problem is that when I try to move the feet on my glass boards, that are 23 inch wide, I most often fall.
I will try some more boards with high volume and about 26 inch wide during the summer

Tonel at low water
 
June  2021.. Surf days  end of month. 2027 sessions
01..02..05..06..07..07..09..10..11..12..13..14..15..16..
Surfing around Sagres. Still happy with the soft 100 liter board . It is more responsive than a long board, which give some confidence.
Especially when the lineup is crowded. I am thinking of getting a locl shaper to make a similar bord. During the end of the month I went camping for two weeks.
I was thinking of going to North Spain, but then Covid numbers started to rise.
 
July  2021.. Surf days  end of month.  2055
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16..17..19..20..21..22..23..24..25..26..27..29..30..
Surfing around Sagres. A trip to Arrifana as well. Bought a 8.4 NSP ultra vide, which is 26 inch and almost 4 thick.
Also I managed to place order for a ultra vide board, with more weight on performance. I use the soft top on bigger days.
The NSP I have only had a few weeks, so difficult to compare. Both are boards for beginner surfers, with a lot of rocker.
my_diary_1/2021/210730castelejo 4k.mp4
Video of 100 liter Quicksilver 8 x 26 x 4 in 4 to 6 feet  swell.
 
August  2021.. Surf days  end of month.  2086 total - 190  in year
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I was surfing mostly with the new quicksilver and a NSP , that I bought. Nsp dimentions are 8.4 x 24 x 3-3/4
aprox 100 liters also. A nice stable platform.

What is happening now is that I do not feel comfortable surfing my longboards. So they are hanging on the wall
I even ordered a new board from our local shaper. Also 8.4 X 26 X 4 in epoxy in 100 liter range.
 
 
Left the 10 ft LUFI that I was using a lot during first half of this year. Followed by the Quicksilver board ansd the NSP.
The 10 feet board is around 90 liters I guess. It is a great board but in the hands of a more experienced surfer.
 I am not really in control of the direction and with a long board like this shore break is very difficult. You need to move your feet along the board for turning and trimming.
I find that difficult and fall more often than I like.

On Facebook I joined a group "Surfers over 70". Very interesting to be able to compare the ploblems we get , getting older.

The plan for next month is to return to 50 plus course in North Spain arranged by www.surfnsoul.com. i have booked 2 weeks .

 
 
September 2021.. Surf days end of month. 2108 - 212 in year
01..02..03..04..05..06..08..09..10..11..  Sagres
18..19..20..21..22..23..24..25..26..27..28..29..  San Vicente de Barquera
First surf in Sagres area. 14 Sep I left for North Spain . A 50 + surf course with Martin. This was my first trip away from Sagres/Atllentejo, in almost 2 years.
The trip followed the usual route and I stayed in a Bungalow on the Camping. Waves were very good almost every day. It was nice to meet the old group again. There were 4 newcomers. When they saw the 73 year old catching the waves with ease, they were motivated. "If he can do it, so can we"
 

Octobre 2020.. Surf sessions  end of month.   2116 - 220 in year
01..06..07..08..27..28..29..31
01 still in Oyambre . Surfed some of my best waves ever.
Then a long drive back to Sagres. When I started trip I was with a lot of Covid fear. Once underway, I forgot about it.
Back in Sagres the weather was nice and sunny. This time a year we get a lot of travelling surfers. In a way I should have stayed on the North coast longer time. But It is always nice to be home again. I was surfing my NSP 8.4 feet. A fantastic board when the waves bigger. I am still waiting for a custom made board.
my_diary_1/2021/211103oyambrefull.mp4   Best surf of the month. Maybe best ever.
 
November 2020.. Surf sessions  end of month.  2135 - 239
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Sagres area. Manny good days. Still many sunny days. Bigger swell days.
No luck so far to get a new board , extra wide. Then one day I found a 26.5 inch wide and 8 feet long in a local shop.
i bought it at once. 345 Euro. I tried it . Shorter than I would like , but low rocker and 110 liter. It is a very good supplement  to the 8.4 NSP . Best in small to medium size swell.
 
my_diary_1/2021/211204amadopopup.mp4   Using the 8 ft 26.5 inch wide board
my_diary_1/2021/Torben 03.mp4                    NSP 8.4 in Oyambre. . Video by www.surfnsoul.com    56 MB
 
December 2020.. Surf sessions  end of month. 2157 total - 261 in year
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16..17..18..22..23..24..25..26..27..31..
Surfing around Sagres all month. The new 8 feet x 26 feet has only little rocker and it glide easy , but do tend to pearl easy.  My NSP 8.4 is still used a lot. Fantastic in bigger waves and foamy waves.
By end of the month we had some bigger swell coming in. I started to take my 10 feet LUFI to the beach, but I must admit that it may be a very good board, but I find the 8.4  more suitable in the different situations and especially with many surfers in the line up, I am more comfortable with the shorter board.
my_diary_1/2021/211215mareta.mp4     video   Mareta
my_diary_1/2021/211218tonelnew.mp4  video   Tonel