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Diary   2012 - 1

 

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03 January  2012 Tuesday Day 480   
Sa Marina. Nice sunny day with no wind and up to 5 feet clean swell.    

At the parking at Sa Marina there is a small restaurant. This is 3 in the afternoon. Not a spare seat. The weather is exceptionally warm for January

 
07 January  2012 Saturday Day 481

First I had a look  at Sa Marina. It was a bit rough there. Eventually I settled for Playa de Muro. Photo and video is from Sa Marina.

10 January  2012 Tuesday Day 482  ( 15 since end November )

Sa Marina. A pretty good day. Sets up to 6 feet, but most in 4 - 5 feet range.  Lots of surfers out. I counted 7. LOL.  The SUP are not doing very well.  Glad I did not get one of those.  Still lots of sun shine.

 

18 Jan . Waiting for the swell. testing GoPro camera

 

21 January  2012 Saturday Day 483  The swell is back. And good quality as well.  

 
16 February  2012 Thursday Day 484   Muro Beach.  The freeze is over. Sun is back out.
 
17 February  2012 Friday Day 485  Sa Marina. Well I thought it was somewhat difficult. Lots of falling. Nice sunny day.  15 deg C . Water is 14 Deg C
Video from today .be/Ct0mEaCX7fs
 
18 February  2012 Saturday Day 486  Sa Marina. Very small waves.

Different stages of " Old man`s" Pop up.

 
23 February  2012 Thursday Day 487  Sa Marina.

No wind, clean waves ,sun and only 1 surfer besides me. That is how I like it.

More video from this day, but less quality:  http://youtu.be/ITqD12oBgCI

 
06 Marts  2012 Tuesday Day 489  Sa Marina.  Day 488 in Paguera.
 

The winter season for me is now over. Tuesday 20 Marts I drive to Sagres in Portugal to start the summer season on the Atlantic coast. We have had some very good waves during the winter, but there have been long spells without waves as well.

I was checking in surfing-waves.com forum if I have any surfer friends around the world, fighting the same problems as me. The answers were very interesting:

quote

Hi.

I started surfing 5 years ago. At age 58. It took a while to realize that there is very little help to get for old surfers. Most tuition and books is written for younger more flexible bodies.

The pop up, as you should do it, is a sure way to get a back ache.

I almost quit in despair. Then I remembered a mail in this forum that said. " Get onto your feet the best way you can "

After 4 years of desperate trying to make a proper pop up, I am using my knees every time now. Often I surf the first part of the wave on my knees and then get to my feet later.

 

unquote

read the answers here  http://www.surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18496
 

 

PORTUGAL 2012

The drive to Portugal was quite uneventful, if you disregard that the ferry was caught in bad weather. We were landed in Valencia with a 4 hour delay. At 22.00 hours in torrential rain.

The road across the Sierra Nevada was closed due to snow. After 2 days I was arriving in Sagres ready to do some surfing.

Driving towards Granada

The first day in Sagres. The waves at Mareta looked a bit rough. I stayed ashore.

 
24 Marts  2012 Saturday Day 490  Sagres.  
First day in the water. South East swell. I was starting easy. Catching 3 biggish waves, and called it the day.

 
25 Marts  2012 Sunday Day 491  Sagres.
Same wind same waves. Mareta again.

It feels like hanging on a vertical wall of water. I had great difficulty to force myself to paddle on, and take the plunge. With a friendly peeling wave like this, you are safe ( relatively ). With a unfriendly, plunging wave you can get hurt. Beginners must quickly learn to distinguish different wave types.

A surfer with a plunging wave behind him. These waves are powerful, and not for beginners.

Surfer, same as above. is bailing out. Jumping off the board and diving under the wave.

26 Marts  2012 Monday Day 492  Mareta.
A great day. Still biggish waves. Now I start to feel at home. Sitting well out from the shore, waiting for the big sets.
 
27 Marts  2012 Tuesday Day 493  Mareta.

It does not show on the photo, but the waves were big, Very difficult to get out and when I managed, I was regretting. Waves were to big for me. I did catch one wave. The one that took me back to the beach.

 
28 Marts  2012 Wednsday Day 494  Amado.

I went to Amado beach. The waves at Mareta are getting too big and wiped out by the wind. Amado was as such good waves. The offshore wind were having a good effect.

First I had a couple of grand wipe outs. In one case I was more or less hanging in the air. Trying to pop up. That does not work, I can tell  .

Then the waves started to become more friendly. Also it is the same old story. The steeper the wave looks, the harder you must paddle. With my type of board witch is 9 feet 2 inch, it is a must.

 
30 Marts  2012 Friday Day 495  Mareta

The wind is getting a lot less. I was starting at Mareta at midtide. The first one in the water. Big sets coming in. Looks like 6 feet to me. 7 waves so far today.

Photo is from the evening. Waves are now decreasing.

 
31 Marts  2012 Saturday Day 496  Cordoma

The waves are not very big, even on the West coast. There was a few peaks at Cordoma. The wave was just breaking at the off lying sand bar, then vanishing as water got deeper.

 
01 April  2012 Sunday Day 497  Cordoma

At low water there was 1 bumpy peak. I got just 1 wave. It was getting late and nobody else out. I thought it better to get back to the beach as sometimes Cordoma has a strong rip. Going circles in darkness is not my cup off tea.

 
03 April  2012 Tuesday Day 498  Costaljo

A bumpy ride. I got through the whitewater with some difficulty. Outside the waves were very bumpy, though big enough. I could not surf in that condition. Then I surfed white water for a while.

Morning session Tuesday

Windswept Cordoma in the afternoon.

04 April  2012 Wednsday Day 499
During the morning I had a look. Amado very big and windy. Arrifana looked good, but you could hardly see the water for surfers.  Then I went back to the camping and had lunch.

Arrifana

Everybody waiting for the swell.

When it is there, nobody wants it

During the afternoon I went scouting again. Eventually I found a small cove with nice clean swell. I have been passing this place many times, and never seen anything exiting. Then all of a sudden I caught it with the right condition, and had a couple of hours good surf.
  

06 April  2012 Friday Day 500

Five hundred surf days until now.  I went to Zavial. Only small waves and onshore wind. Some sun. Air temperature 17 Deg. During the night down to 10 Deg.C. Only 5 surfers. I think the majority has gone to the West coast. The waves, however were well suited for my longboard. My wave count was almost 10 waves for the day. As the tide came in the waves vanished.

 
07 April  2012 Saturday Day 501

I was at many beaches, but everywhere the waves were too big. Fun to look at.   Later I found Zavial reasonable, and tried. I did manage to stand up on the board once. The waves were just to steep, and breaking unto shallow water.

The air temp is cold. This morning around 10 Deg C. Once the sun is out and you find shelter from the wind, then it is like summer, and you can tan on the beach.

Tonel

Look at the surfer in the background. Overhead white water.

 
08 April  2012 Sunday Day 502

Cordoma beach today. A warm sunny day with little wind and big swell. I was surfing the peak for a while. Together with 10 other surfers. I would have liked to stay more, but the crowd and the strong current freaked me out a bit.

The 2 above photos are from Cordoma today.

 
09 April  2012 Monday Day 503

An easy day at Amado beach. A sunny day with smallish waves. I had a look at Cordoma later. It was now high water and not tempting, so I had a run along the beach.

 
10 April  2012 Tuesday Day 504

Amado beach. It was very bumpy and windy. I managed to do a bit of knee surfing. Actually I was a little surprised that I managed to get through the breaking zone. Guess my arms are getting stronger.

 
11 April  2012 Wednsday Day 505
Amado. My best day surfing so far this spring in Portugal.  Big swell and no wind.

A surfer surfing a nice big peeling wave ( or friendly wave as I call them ) This type of wave is the learners best friend. Even if I am starting as the wave is breaking on top of me, I will still get a good start.  I tend to surf these waves straight down. Then I get so much speed that I can keep just in front of the white water. To keep this position I need to angle to one side one I am in front of the whitewater. I can do this because I have a long board with a lot of volume.  I get some spectacular long rides this way.

The surfer on the photo is angling down the face of the wave , trying to find some ride able wall,

 
Thursday  to Sunday very windy and no surf
 

Monday 14 April. I am on the road with the caravan to see something else. Still windy, only bumpy waves. No proper swell. I had a look at Zambujeira, 70 Km North from Sagres, and stay the night on a camp site there.

Zambujeira beach

Zambujeira beach. Many signs that campervans should use the camping site facilities, for overnight stay.

 

Tuesday. I am still sight seeing. Today I went to camping resort www.zmar.eu.  Indoor pool included. I was spending afternoon swimming laps. Caravan, person, car, el pools free. 12 Euro a day. I think there is a Spa and sauna as well.  Cofee and a big cake 2.40 Euro.

Zmar pools

  

Wednsday. I drowe  to S Torpe near Sines. Here is a protected bay. Several surfers found here. Good parking right by the beach.. I stay in nearby Porto Covo. Camping near the water tower ,  Very nice and right in center of this small town. There is a camping in S Torpe as well. 200 metres from the beach. Walking only. The drive access is a bit inland. No shops nearby. Campervans can find several places to park Porto Covo is a campervan friendly municipal. At least during the winter.

I did not surf, even it was tempting. The air temperature was only 15 deg C. I think the caravan has been tested now for the BIG summer trip. I am heading back to Sagres.

 

 
21 April  2012 Saturday Day 506

Amado. I had a look yesterday, but the waves were pretty big and no surfers out. Today it was perfect. I was catching some good waves. Sun was coming out and it was pleasant. Without the sun the air temp is pretty cold. 15/17 deg C.

I was kneeing down some pretty big swell. Kneeing the wall and doing late pop up. It was good long board waves.

Amado yesterday

 
22 April  2012 Sunday Day 507

Amado. I was there at 9.00 hours. Then you have everything for yourself, even if it is Sunday. It was low water, and that does not make the best waves. Video ( knee surfing the wall )

 
23 April  2012 Monday Day 508
Amado. Swell 3-5 feet. Only few people. Overcast. A bit bumpy, so I was knee surfing most of the day.

Video knee surfing   Video* ( surfing the wall a tiny bit and leaving the wave over the back side )

Below a set of video shot by a surfer friend.

Video 1*  Video 2  Video 3  Video 4  Video 5

* Same scene with different camera.

Video 1: The wave is closing out, and getting pretty steep. By sitting on the surf board tail I lift the front of the board and prevent it from pearling.

Video 2: Wave has a good shape. Again I sit aft on the board, but it is wrong, I am breaking the board spead for no reason.

Video 3: It looks a bit as if I am angling down this wave. I do not get enough speed.

Video 4: No comments

Video 5: Sitting on the tail and lifting the front of the board. If I had not fallen then this would have been a long ride.

 

   
24 April  2012 Tuesday Day 509

Amado. I was surfing some of my biggest waves ever. Riding from the lineup to the beach several times.

Video. ( wave has already broken, so I ride the secondary wave, that keeps reforming until the beach. )

Video ( prop my biggest wave ever. At least it felt like it. And breaking right on top of me. I felt as if bodysurfing behind the board for a while, until I managed to crawl back onboard. Then I called it the day, not sure I will like a wipe out by a wave like this. Well, I took one more wave actually )

  
28 April  2012 Saturday Day 510

3 days without me surfing. Big waves on the West coast. Up to 3 meters. Air Temperature has been low and rain. I dislike to change into the neoprene when it is raining, cold and windy. I was surfing Ingrina today. Only 2/3 feet waves, but with a good shape.  Sun is back.

 
29 April  2012 Sunday Day 511

Still windy with the odd shower now and again. Air temp during the day was maxing at 17 Deg C. I went to Amado. Very bumpy waves. So I didn't stay for too long.

Lots of whitewater for the beginner surfer.

30 April  2012 Monday Day 512

Sun most of the day. Wind moderate. Amado was a lot better. Tomorrow I will try to get there at high water. I was in the water one hour and a bit. Lots of breakers to get trough, before I made it to the outside. There I was a bit indecisive. The big sets had started to kick up sand, as the tide was going down. Then I tried to get the smaller waves. I did catch more than 5 good waves.

   
01 May  2012 Tuesday Day 513

I was at Amado again. The day started with rain end ended with sunshine. Sort of mellow swell and only a weak wind. It was great conditions for me. I was catching wave until my arms could paddle no more and my teeth were chattering from the cold water.

 
03 May  2012 Thursday Day 514
Mareta. A good morning. I was catching many waves. Sunshine and 20 Deg C
 
05 May  2012 Saturday Day 515

Amado. Nice sun and 20 Deg C. The waves were bigger than I first thought. I was flipped 180 degree lengthwise and then the board got caught by the wave quest, with me hanging underneath. I kept a good grip at the rails. That board is my handhold to fresh air, I thought.

Then I moved to the more protected Northern end. Even here the waves were of a good size. And many surfers. However after a few demos where the " hooded man" came  like an express train, out of control, on a beginner surf board; down the biggest waves. They moved a bit away, so I had a clear run.

 
06 May  2012 Sunday Day 516

Cordoma. I was there around noon. It looked good, but many surfers. Then I went home and relaxed. Came back at 17.00 hours. Ended up being alone. And the waves were perfect. I was surfing several times from the line up to the beach. Sun shine all day. 20 Deg C. light wind only.

Watch out for the rocks at the North end of the beach.

 
 
07 May  2012 Monday Day 517

Cordoma again. Mix sun and clouds. 20 Deg C. Swell not as good as yesterday. We had to sit closer and closer towards to the beach.

Cordoma late in the afternoon.

 
08 May  2012 Tuesday Day 518

Cordoma. Nice waves. Sun all day 20 Deg C. Calm.  I did not stay as long in the water as I would have liked to. After 3 days of good surf, my body is getting tired.

 

Surfer with red board seem to be in the in the way.

No prop, when you know how to make a turn.

 
That is the end of 1 st trip to Portugal in 2012. . I will be back end of May.
 
25 May  2012 Friday Day 519

Ingrina beach. A nice day, but very windy from NW. Even some of the surf school from Amado was there. Around 20 Deg. C.   Waves small. I just managed to surf a little on my knees.

 
27 May  2012 Sunday Day 520

Amado beach. Even on a Sunday you can get the best peaks, being early. Also it is less windy. I was in the water before 10. Waves about 5 feet. Had a few waves that took me al the way to the beach. Air 20 Deg.C . Half sunshine. The wind increasing to very fresh.

A rare sight. A caravan parked in between the motor homes.

 
28 May  2012 Monday Day 521

A windy day again. Temp is fine 20 Deg C. Sun all day as well. At 19.00 hour I just finished shopping, and thought I would just have a look at Tonel. Quite a few surfers were heading home. When I was ready I was all alone. The waves were great for my board. It seem I got the wave size and the tide just right.

 
29 May  2012 Tuesday Day 522

Tonel. Up at 6 o´clock to get the tide right. Only 2 surfers. After a while I had the spot for myself. I was surfing green water walls a couple of times. That has been a while.

Temperature 20 Deg. Only little wind during the morning.

I was trying again during the evening. It was very windy then, but still good swell.

The first wind surfer have seen this year.

 
30 May  2012 WednsdayDay 523

Tonel. Today I was not there that early. Starting at 10.00 hours.  Stronger swell, and the wind was blowing. Still \I was catching wave, surfing all the way to the beach. Not a good idea if you fall unexpectedly.

At low water I went to have a look, as there are a few submerged rocks. I made mental note and took photos.

Temperature during afternoon 22 Deg. Sunny all day.  Wind up to 20 Knot

 
1 June  2012 Friday Day 525  Start of trip along the Atlantic coast.

Yesterday I had one more day ay Tonel. Today I started a trip along the coast North to Oporto. First stop was S. Torpe, where I parked right in front of the beach. There I surfed for some hours, and then went to the camping.

Temperature up to 30 Deg. Sunny during the afternoon. Windy in Sagres as I departed, No wind in S. Torpes.

S. Torpe beach.

S.Torpe camping. Nothing special, but friendly people, lots of hot water and 10 Euro a day. I have stayed at Portoi Covo camping as well. More up marked, and right in the center of Porto Covo.  (By the water tower)

 

2 June 2012. Today I was spending the night in Nazare. I dod not see any surfers there. Had a look at the North Beach. ( where a world record was made last yr. )  We were a couple of traveling surfers looking. And then we went home. Just too big.

Temperatures up to 28 Deg. Mix sun and very clouded. Evening cool, down to 20.

Nazate North beach

Swell on a quiet day  ( full zoom )

 

3 Jun. Figuera de Foz. The surfspot is right next to the South breakwater. I did not see anybody surfing however. Pleasant town, but I had to move on. I had a look the following morning at low water, and almost stayed another day.

I was on Orbitur Camping. Very pleased with that. A small distance to the beach. Walking. Now the waves easy are high there. Not for kids, and grow ups for that.  However there is a good pool. Very good sanitary. Small supermarket and restaurant.

Right next to the surf spot there is a camping. Inexpensive. Not a lot of shadow . Outside there is a surf bar and a surf school.

The beach in front of Orbitur Gala

 

4 Jun  Aveiro. The surf spot is again right South to the breakwater. More North of the break water. Not that I saw anybody surfing.. Else this whole area seems pleasant. Called Costa de Prata.

Temperature about 30 Deg during afternoon. The wind from the sea is  nice cool.

I stayed at Costa Nova camping. A private  camping, right next to the beach. I was hoping I could walk right down on the beach and surf. But the gate was locked and the beach no good for surf anyway.  This camping has proper green grass. First I have seen in Portugal. Excellent sanitary as well.

Next to Barra beach there is a camping inside the residential area. Not a lot of shadow and a bit rough looking. The reception friendly and the price in the low range.

Close by you find Orbitur Vaquera. I was passing by, but it looked like a up marked camping site with a lot of shade. I think I will try that one next.

Further south is Mira Municipal. I have friends that stayed there. It is good value for money.

Barra beach. Supposed to be the best spot. Note the motor homes. There is parking reserved for them right by the beach.

The Vaguiera beach.  The high water did not look surf able that day.

 

5 June 2012. Just arriving Orbitur Rio Alto Camping. It is ok, and has access to the beach. It is a long stretch of open beach. I think some driving is needed.

7 June. After some searching I found a decent surf spot in Fao - Ofir . Just South from the river. Good parking and some Jetties. There is a camping in Fao as well, but where I am now in Orbitur Rio Alto I like more.

The waves looked a bit too big for me, but I will be back.  It does look however that the swell size over the following days can be a problem.

The parking is by the tall buildings.  The surf spot is this side of the jetty.

By the tall buildings

Swell forecast today was 2 meters

 

8 - 14 June. Marianne is visiting. We are scouting the beaches North of Porto, all the way toVigo in Spain. Even if the weather is windy and several days with rain, we do come across some very nice places.

Right next to the river mouth of Porto we saw several surfers. I will not guarantee the quality of the water. Porto is worth a visit.

Porto photos above
------------

 Further North we found the best place. Actually a city beach of Povoa de Varzim. Actually a city beach, but empty from swimmers during mid June. Two surfers were catching some good wave here. Nice swell, good beach bars. Ridiculous prices. Café con leche Index at 1 Euro in a smart beach bar with deep chairs. Mind you during July ,August and September it may be that the beach goers will take over.

Povoa de Varzim. photos above
------------------------------------------

Agucadoura is a funny old fashioned town. Very quiet. However on the beach you find parking and what I think looked like good waves. Completely empty. This name you will find in some of the surf guides.

I am still a beginner and cautious, so I do no venture into unknown waters with sizeable waves, but it looked good.

------------------------

Ofir beach further North has two break waters to protect the beach. Here we saw surfers several times. Nice parking and a couple of restaurants where you sit protected from the wind and have great local food at a very reasonable price.

-------------

We went to Viana do Castello beach, just South of the river. Here are several camping sites. It was windy and rain. The kite surfers were having a great time.

Afife beach 10 Km further North is a quiet small town. Filling up during the summer month.

Moledo beach is at the border to Spain. Protected as it is in the river mouth. Very quiet during mid June. A nice parking by the beach, where you can look across to Spain and the old fortress in the river .

 

Heading south again 14 June 2012. I had read about a place called Furadouro, on the internet, some 40 Km. South of Porto. There I found a surf shop, surf school . Couple of break waters to hold the beach in place. Unfortunately the surfing for the day was done in the morning, due to tide level.

There is a very big camp site. 330.000 square meters. A  part is reserved for nomads. There you find very nice shadow from tall trees, and very few occupants in that section. The sanitary ais very good. The price reflect the local marked, very reasonable. Looks like lots of entertainment during high season. Calculating from the big outdoor stage.

The town is not very big, but I guess it will fill up over the summer.

Endless beach stretching South

Water front

High street

 

15 June , and I arrive at Peniche. I had a look at one of the beaches. The one in front of Municipal Camping. Within walking distance. Which is a rare thing.

Different part of the beach has different wave height.

Different part of the beach has different wave height.

Sun down from my camping space.

The camping is very open and with only a few trees. However well organized and kept nice and tidy. A cool breeze is blowing most of the time.

 
16 June 2012 Saturday Day 524

Peniche North facing beach.. The morning session was very good. 4 feet swell and a weak offshore wind.  I was catching wave until my arms felt like rubber. Surfing from the lineup, right to the beach.

In the evening I went to the beach again, but the waves were not good.

It is great that you can just walk to the beach.

The weather was overcast first, and a bit of rain. Later sparkling sunshine and dry air. Inside the caravan it was 27 deg C with all windows open.

The camping has a small cafeteria. Cofe con Leche is 90 cent.

 

17 - 18 June i was doing some shopping and photo. Today 18, the wind is blowing hard from NW.Also it is getting colder. Still 20 + during the day and sunny afternoons. Photos are from 17 June.

From the beach near Baleal. Looking towards Peniche.

From the beach near Baleal. Baleal South beach in the background.

 Baleal South beach in the background.

 Baleal North beach

Baleal North beach

 

During my stay in Peniche I developed an aye condition called PVD. Nothing special, but  it may involve reduced sport activity for days or weeks. After a check by an aye doc in Lisboa  I returned to Sagres with the caravan and 22 of June flew to Mallorca to get an extra examination and more advise.

Sagres camping was having few guest. The main holiday season has not started. The North wind was blowing keeping you cool. 20.00 hour s 18 Deg. C
 

28. June 2012. Examination show I am fit and ready for surf again. Ticket to Faro booked. Plan return 6 of July.  Palma de Mallorca is heat wave condition with 28 deg C in my bedroom at 03.00 at night.

 

06 July 2012  Back in Sagres. Sun, but windy. Temp at 2100 h is 19 Deg. C It will be great to sleep under the duvet, and maybe even a blanket on top.

 
07 July 2012 Saturday Day 525

Cordoma. Good swell during the morning. During the afternoon more wind, which mashed it out. The breeze keeps you nice and cool.. 24 Deg at 13.00 hr. Sun all day.

 
08 July 2012 Sunday Day 526
Tonel. During the afternoon the wind was quite strong. However, I could still get some good waves.
 
09 July 2012 Monday Day 527

Tonel. Surfing once during the morning and once during the afternoon. I guess you can say it is my new favorite beach right now. Sun all day. 25 Deg during the day. Down to 18 during the night. A cool breeze. Sometimes strong. This is paradise when you think that we are at the ( almost ) most Southern point of Europe.  The waves are choppy. The beginners are having a hard time. I am happy with my big buoyant board. I am actually catching wave and surfing.

 
10 July 2012 Tuesday Day 528
Tonel. Only small waves today. Still I was in the water a couple of hours.

Tonel at low water

 
11 July 2012 Wednsday Day 529

Cordoma. A nice surf in the morning. The waves were choppy. You get to be quick to catch the right one. All of a sudden it is there. The reward was some good rides. The earlier start in the morning, the better. Short boarder can not surf these waves, so I was alone most of the time.

 
12 July 2012 Thursday Day 530

Cordoma. Again a good morning. Starting an 10.00. I have my own private peak. There is a strong current , so a lot of paddling is necessary. I am being rewarded however with 4  to  5 feet sets. It is still bumpy.

Temp last night down to 17 Deg. During the day 25 Deg. Sun all day and breezy.

My private peak

Beginner surfers having fun.

Cordoma mid July Noon time

 
13 July 2012 Friday Day 531

Cordoma again today. First during the morning. Very good waves.  Couple of short boarders were at my peak as well, but there were space enough for us all.
During the afternoon I came back at low water to check for rocks. I recalled having seen rocks here before. They are almost covered with sand now. Now there is like a sand reef 90 deg to the beach. This is what is creating good conditions. 
I tried a bit of surfing at low water, but the waves were very messy and powerful. The power and steepness of the waves freaked me out a bit and I returned to the beach.

 
14 July 2012 Saturday Day 532

Cordoma.. Waves are getting bigger. I managed to get through the breaking zone. I was sitting there bobbing up and down. Did not quite like it. Then a mega wave picked me up and threw me from the breaking chest. Vertical down. Then It rolled over me.
The good thing was I did not panic. Using the leech, I pulled myself back to the board, and stayed with it.
That was the end of my surfing day.
The experienced surfers on photo below were having great fun.

 
15 July 2012 Sunday Day 533
Tonel. Another windy day.
 
16 July 2012 Monday Day 534

Tonel. One of my best days ever. No wind. I  could keep catching waves. Experimenting taking off width a small angle so I could surf the wall right from the beginning. I think I was the one surfing most waves.
Normally I easy get tired, so today I drank 2 sports drink before surfing. That helped a lot.

 
17 July 2012 Tuesday Day 535

The day started in Mareta. Swell was coming from South East there. After a lunch break I continued surfing in Tonel. North West swell. In the evening surfers were again lined up in Mareta. No wind. Clean swell. 33 Deg C during the day. 20 at night. Sun all day.

 
18 July 2012 Wednsday Day 536

Mareta during the morning and then Tonel.
I did a major discovery. Well, I knew about it already, but have not thought it that important before. DO NOT HOLD  THE RAIL during take off. Keep your hands on the top of the board.
Without having body parts dangling in the water during take off, then the board accelerate much faster. More speed is more stability and better direction control.
I used to grip the rail to stabilize the board, but the opposite is happening. I guess I overcorrect. I was amazed by the speed increase and the better stability.

The wind is back in North West. Nice and cool.  The vacation period has started. A lot more traffic, but the camping is not even half full.

Tonel Beach at high water

 
19 July 2012 Thursday Day 537
Tonel. Waves only good for long board. Wind back in NW. Pleasant temperature. Lots of sun.
 
20 July 2012 Friday Day 538

Tonel. Not enough swell to surf. i tried anyway, and managed to surf a few waves. Windy. Pleasant day. I had a look in Cordoma as well. It looked good with only a small breeze  I got my choice wrong. Then i bought a 3/2  wet suit. Day temp 25 . Night down to 18 Deg C.

 

21 July 2012 Saturday Day 539

Cordoma. I was the first one in the water. And the only one for several hours. It was low tide. The waves looked small. But I know from bad experience that the waves are bigger than they look. Because at Cordoma I was surfing a 6 feet almost tubing wave. . Problem was, I was on the outside of the tube.
That was my biggest wipeout ever. And that looked like a quiet day, with a bit of white foamy, here and there.
Anyway, I had a really good surf this morning.

Cordoma today.

 
22 July 2012 Sunday Day 540

Cordoma. Waves for long board only. I feel a bit sorry for the hopeful short boarders, that get into their gear after they see me catch a few waves. Short board just do not work well these days. In Cordoma that is. Even I am struggling. The wave will look ok. I can just get started. Then it fizzle out.

 
23 July 2012 Monday Day 541
Cordoma. Strange waves. Up to 5 feet, but without power. The waves would foam a little and then vanish.
 
24 July 2012 Tuesday Day 542

Cordoma. No wind. Tp betwn 25 during  the day to 20 in the evening. Slightly overcast. My peak was occupied by several surfers. Tomorrow I will get there early..

Cordoma today

 
25 July 2012 Wednsday Day 543

It was difficult to find a good spot . The waves were 5 feet plus. No wind, so the swell was clean. Sort of crowded everywhere.  During late afternoon I went to Tonel. It was good surfing there, but still crowded. Tomorrow I will go there later. During the day 25 Deg. Some clouds. Down to 18 Deg during the night.

 
26 July 2012 Thursday Day 544

Tonel. Starting at 19.00. Only few surfers. Light wind. A strong current was messing up the waves a bit. I was taken off just lying on the knees. That worked well. Catching at least 10 good waves. Some pretty big.

 
27 July 2012 Friday Day 545
Tonel. Surfing until sundown.
 
28 July 2012 Saturday Day 546

First I was surfing Tonel, but I got the tide wrong. At 18.00 hours I surfed Cordoma. First I almost returned to the beach, because the waves were quite big. Then I played around some in a more protected part. i could then feel that the waves only had little power.
Catching one of these waves was not that easy. The usual for Cordoma. The waves look very good, and then vanish. I did manage to get 2 rides. That was all. I could have stayed longer, but did not feel comfortable. Strong rib current dragging me all over the place.

The weather was overcast until noontime. Then sun. 25 Deg during the day. around 20 during the night. Only little wind, strongest during the afternoon..

 
29 July 2012 Sunday Day 547

Cordoma. Peaks in right and left side of beach had enough surfers. I placed myself in the middle. There I surfed some big waves that you get there from time to time. Straight down lying on my knees. I was planning to angle some along the wave, but I need to work a bit more on that.

Then I bailed out before I got inside the  line of shore breaks. That way it was a lot easier to get back out., and I did not bother the non surfers, as they stay on the inside of the shore break.

 
30 July 2012 Monday Day 548

Cordoma. Today the swell was very good. 4 feet clean swell. Only a few surfers, because you needed a long board to get started. Also it was high tide at 13.00 hours, so I was surfing twice, and several hours. In the end I had to stop because my shoulders were aching.
There is some current that takes you along the beach, so it is constant paddling. I was surprised I lasted that many hours.

 
31 July 2012 Tuesday Day 549

Cordoma. I like it there, but without a long board with a lot of volume, you will be disappointed. The swell forecast is only 3 feet.

 
01 August 2012 Wednsday Day 550

Cordoma. I was practicing the take off. First straight down the wave getting onto my knees as fast as possible. I then grab the rail opposite to the site I want to turn. This way I have more control over the board, and can lean into the If wave as it is steepening. I have one benefit being on my knees. I can use this grab rail in both directions.
If I get the curve down the wave right . I will gain good speed and can stand up and continue. However more often I lean onto the wave more and bail out. That will shorten my paddling trip back to the line up.

 
02 August 2012 Thursday Day 551

Tonel. The swell was good, but it was very windy. In a way that is Ok, It keeps the crowd away. It is a constant paddling battle to stay in position.

 
04 August 2012 Saturday Day 552

Yesterday was day off. Today I went to Cordoma. The waves were very bad. Too big for me. And bumpy like you have never seen before. I will try later at Tonel.
And so I did. And had a great evening at Tonel.

Cordoma Saturday in August

Cordoma bikers heading North

Body boarder having fun as usual.

 
05 August 2012 Sunday Day 553

Tonel. First it looked like a very bad idea. No waves at all. After a wait of 1 hour the swell started building , and I must have been catching 20 plus waves. Not big waves, but big enough to get a good take off.

 
06 August 2012 Monday Day 554

Cordoma. Waves not very big, but big enough for me to catch several. It took some very hard paddling to get started.
Coming back to the beach, was not easy. The whole beach front, until the shore break, was lined up with surf school and kids with body boards.  It was almost one solid line.
I remember when I was one of them, catching the whitewater, looking out to sea, where a few surfers were sitting on their boards waiting for what I thought was gigantic waves. That is almost 2 years ago now, and more than 250 surf days.

 
07 August 2012 Tuesday Day 555

Cordoma. Very good swell. No wind was surfing twice. The shortboarders had a problem catching the waves. But most of the surfers were new bee's, because a mother and her sun could catch the waves with their short boards. They were small persons however.
Parking is a big problem, so tomorrow I will try somewhere else.

 
08 August 2012 Wednsday Day 556

Cordoma, again. During the morning offshore wind. I surfed again during the late afternoon. There it was calm, but not a lot of swell

Not a lot of surf, but a very nice sun set.

 
09 August 2012 Thursday Day 557

Cordoma again. Evening session. No wind and 4 feet swell if not more. Manny surfers. I found a place in the middle. There are longer btwn the sets, but as I was the only one there, I was catching many good waves that way.
The day was windless and hot. 3o deg. It is cool at night still around 20 deg.

 
This has been a month surfing almost every day. I feel I have progressed a lot. Sunday I go to Mallorca.