Diary   2013 - 2


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04. July 2013 Thursday 687  Back in Portugal

I arrived yesterday, 3 july.. But too late to start surfing. So today I had 3 hours straight at Tonel. Afterwards I was worn out. Friday there was fine swell as well, but I was still down after the sudden start I had yesterday. After a month with almost no surfing. Temp 27/19 Deg C Moderate E wind

Mareta Friday

Mareta Friday

05  July 2013 Saturday 688 
Mareta. South East swell. Great for training the drop and first turn. I was starting at 7 in the evening. Max  Temp 29 Deg C

Mareta at close to sun set.

06  July 2013 Sunday 689

Mareta again. With an air temp of 30  deg I am surfing late evenings. But the swell is getting  too low. 

06  July 2013 Sunday 689

Today I rented a 10.2 Long board. A heavy log. Nice to surf with, but a bit dangerous. You get hit by a board like that and something serious will happen.

09  July 2013 Tuesday 690

I started surf classes with Sagres Natura today. It is good to have a refresh. Already the first day some bad habits were straightened out. I take a day course now and again.

10  July 2013 Wednsday 691

Twice I went to Castelejo.  In the morning it was crowded, but clean waves. In the late afternoon I was alone, but it was choppy. The wind is back in NW after two weeks from East. Temperature dropped to a comfortable level of max 27 deg. And cool evenings at 20 deg C.
Tomorrow even cooler max /min 24/16. Kind of interesting with so low temperatures so far South.


11 and 12  July 2013 Friday 694

Castelejo. Small waves, but clean and no wind. I was sitting way out waiting for the odd big wave . This worked and I had some nice rides. After my day with the surf teachers,  I have got my stance corrected. I am a bit stiff, and need to loosen up, but it feels right.

It has been a couple of grey days. Nice temperature at max 25 min 15


Amado Sat 13 July. Lots of surfers band few waves. I then decided to start packing to go to Galicia in search of waves. Just a quick trip with the tent and car.


16 July 2013 I am on the road towards Santiago de Compostella and the Coast by A Coruna. Stopping at a nice hotel midway. AC and hot meal.  Outside it is summer with 30 Deg.

17 July. I am now in Galisia near Noia. Great scenery. Nice beaches. No swell... at all. 32 Deg. Sunshine

Galicien West Coast. This beach is right next to the camping where I pitched  the tent the following day.


18 July. Today I went to Razo beach. No swell big enough. Anyway an impressive beach. Then I went 70 Km South again and pitched  the tent a  very nice camping I had come across. In Muro betwn Vigo and A Coruna. Right on the coast. The surf beach within walking. Only no swell.

Razo beach

  Camping set up

I even became friendly with a local bird.


19 and 20  July. Driving back to Sagres. That was a 2000 Km round trip looking for wave. And I found nothing. Partly because I did not look North of A Coruna, where the summer beaches are. There I may have found 2 feet swell. The beaches South from A  Coruna are in general the winter beaches..
Sagres is great for temperature at the moment 24 Deg and a cool NW wind. Sunshine.

21 and  July 2013 Sunday 695

I am back in Bisuness at Amado beach. Trying to make a early start. Eventually it was packed, but most of the surfers are at a early learning stage. So they are not on the way.


22 July 2013 Monday 696
Amado again. 3 feet today. many surfers, so I just surfed some medicore wave along the beach.

A nasty bit of steep wave. i did actually wipe out on this one. But I am satisfied to see haw I managed to get the board along the wall. I do not take off with an angle to start with. The fin is forward in the slot and I can twist the board right from it starts gliding.

23 and 24 July 2013 Wednsday 698
Tonel. Windy and 3 feet swell. 25 Deg Sun all day

This photo is from Amado Monday. I got that wave just right!!!!

25 and 26 July 2013 Friday - 700 surfdays

Tonel. 3 feet at the most. Windy. Sun all day. 24 Deg C max. The rest of the Iberian peninsular is having a heat wave. But here it is very pleasant.

2 photos from the camping site.

27 July 2013 Saturday - 701 surfdays
Today I was with the surf school. We surfed at Castelejo beach. 4 feet swell, no wind. Great conditions

Castelejo Beach . Waves were getting bigger during the day. Ending up being to big for me, so I packed up.

Tomorrow I am packing .Monday 29 july, I fly to Mallorca. To stay for a week.
08 August 2013 Thursday - 702 surfdays

I arrived yesterday from Mallorca. Today I surfed at Tonel Beach. Not too fantastic. The temp was 27 / 17 and a strong NW wind. Sun all day.
I have been reading the Kindle book ...Surf better by Dave Rearvin..I can recommend the book. It helped me with some questions about catching the wave , angling and foot placement.  Now I am looking forward to get some more surf classes.

09 August 2013 Friday - 703 surfdays
Tonel again. Very weak wind, so it was hot today. Good waves, and manny surfers.

After surf I had a cofee and some internet at  Last Chance Café. Nice view.

10 August 2013 Saturday - 704 surfdays

Castelejo. I was there early. Swell 5-6-feet. Great surfing, once I got the hang og it. Not crowded. Very little wind. A Perfect day. 30 Deg C. Sun all day.

11 August 2013 Sunday - 705 surfdays

I was surfing during the morning at Castelejo. The waves wwere bigger today, and I tired out quite quickly.

13 August 2013 Tuesday - 706 surfdays

Morning surf at Tonel. First one in. only 2 feet waves, but I was catching a lot and had a good chance to try catching waves with different angle of  the board towards the wave.

Tonel during the afternoon

Tonel during the afternoon.

14 August 2013 Wednsday - 707 surfdays

I started on Castelejo, but found the waves to be to big. Then I went to Tonel and had some nice surfing. After I got my  stance corrected, I can get a lot more speed on my board.

15 August 2013 Thursday - 708 surfdays
A great morning at Amado. I was practising speed , turn , speed , turn.
17 August 2013 Saturday - 709 surfdays

Tonel. Very small waves. I was paddeling a lot. So I was exhausted after a while, just from paddeling. Strange.

18 August 2013 Sunday - 710 surfdays

Tonel. First it was a paddle trip from one end of the beach to the other. My arms and sholders hurt.
In the afternoon I went again and actually managed to surf a little. The waves were small and difficult.
Tp 27 / 17. Sun all day . Moderate NW wind.

19 August 2013 Monday- 711 surfdays
21 August 2013 Wednsday- 712 surfdays

Tonel twice. 2 - 3 feet. No wind. A lot of the vacation makers have gone home. It is more quiet now. I was getting maybee more than 30 waves today.

A nice boat at anchor. in Tonel bay

22 August 2013 Thursday - 713 surfdays
Castelejo. Good wave size. But I was not the only one there. The parking filled up completely. No wind. 28 deg.c  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWNDIx5OyvI&feature=youtu.be

Towards the end of the ride.

Now it is time for a week vacation . I am going to visit thr Aletjo region Evora and Portalegre..
Photos from a trip around the Alentejo region.
03 Septenber 2013 Monday - 714 surfdays  Evening surf Mareta
04 Sept. I am heading towards North coast of Spain.
08 Septenber 2013 Sunday - 715 surfdays
Oyambre. Great waves. I was twice out.

Oyambre village.

Sunday afternoon.

Sunday afternoon

09 Septenber 2013 Monday - 716 surfdays
Today I was starting a week surf classes with www.surfnsoul.com

10 Septenber 2013 Tuesday - 717 surfdays

I continue surfing at Playa de Guerra in the National Park of Oyambre. Today the waves were very good. However it ended in a big rain squall.

12  Septenber 2013 Thursday - 719 surfdays
Great day with sun at Playa de Guerra.  Nice waves as well.

The mountains of Pico de Europa in the background.


Playa de Guerra

13  Septenber 2013 Friday - 720 surfdays

 I finished today one week surf instruction. Now it is a question to implement all the good advise. Here I am on one of the waves  http://youtu.be/NGslucyNfcw   and   http://youtu.be/zNR1o7Otam0

Me surfing at Gerra Beach
Photo courtesy

17  Septenber 2013 Tuesday - 721 surfdays
Tonel. I was catching some waves, only due to my long board. Water tp is very nice.

Tonel at low tide

Tonel during the after noon at low tide.

18  Septenber 2013 TWednsday - 722 surfdays
Tonel. Big waves and quite a crowd. I found a quiet corner and surfed white water.

Flying surfer at Tonel

19  Septenber 2013 Thursday - 723 surfdays
Tonel. twice. Great waves. Only a little wind, but quite a crowd.
20  Septenber 2013 Fiday - 724 surfdays

Tonel. Late , and then until sun set. Clean swell and no wind. Only a few surfers. i guess the crowd went to the West Coast to find bigger waves. Sunday flight to Mallorca.
Dinner is outdoor and the moon is full.

Dinner under the canopy.

Full moon

08  October  2013 Tuesday - 725 surfdays
Back in Sagres. Surfing Beliche. All of a sudden I could pop up without using my knees.


Tonel looked good as well. You can not see it, but there are a lot of surfers. Some of them took quite a beating.

10  October  2013 Thursday - 726 surfdays

I was surfing Tonel. Nice swell. Sun and only weak wind. I was concentrating to read the waves.
In the afternoon I went to Cordoama. Surprising small waves



11  October  2013 Friday - 727 surfdays

Tonel. More wind today, but a long board can handle a bit of chop, as long as the swell is there as well. The benefit was that there were very few surfers. The water temp is 22 Deg.
I am a bit worn out, but there is a chance of 2 surf periods tomorrow. A morning on the West Coast, and afternoon at Tonel.

12 and 13  October  2013 FSunday - 729 surfdays

Tonel both days. Great swell and only weak wind. Today I thought the swell was almost too big. Then all off a sudden a swimmer is passing by.. A group of 4, it turned out . So I say : "do not swimm to far out". "We won`t ", they  answer. "OH... you think we are already to far out"
Eventually I got used to the swell height of the sets. It was a day with a lot of turtle rolls.

Sun Set at Tonel

14  October  2013 Monday - 730 surfdays

Day after day the swell is getting better. That is good because then I get used to it. The swell is not very power full, anyway. I had the camera with me today.  http://youtu.be/9HqxVyp2GhQ


15  October  2013 Tuesday - 731 surfdays
Tonel again. 4 feet swell. Sun, and only a few surfers.
17  October  2013 Thursday - 732 surfdays

Zavial. First time there since spring. Everybody were there. I counted 50 surfers. However I managed to find an opening and got some good waves. Sun and no wind. A great day.

Sun set at Beliche

19  October  2013 Saturday - 733 surfdays
Mareta. Only small swell, but nice sunshine and no wind.

Tonel is showing a bit of teeth

Tonel sunday

22  October  2013 Tuesday - 734 surfdays

Two days off. Today Tonel. Nice swell. I counted 70 surfers. That is a lot.  It had been raining all morning, so the parking was a muddy mess. I use a 130 liter plastic bag when I take off the wet suit.

23  October  2013 Wednsday - 735 surfdays
Mareta. Swell to small. And I think all the surf schools were there.


Truck at Beliche parking

25  October  2013 Friday - 736 surfdays
A quiet day at Mareta. After 2 days of rain , the sun is back..

   Surfers relaxing at the beach bar.


   After 2 day rain, the sun is back.

   27  October  2013  Sunday - 737 surfdays
  Mos beach, near Lagos. I was the one catching most wave.

Sunset Mos beach

 31  October  2013  Thursday - 738 surfdays

I took a few days off surfing. Because a little back something.  Today Tonel. Great swell. Sunny, nice water temp.  Then I found some video obout surf stance. They are listed in the video section. There seem to be several opinions how to stand on the board , while surfing.


03  November  2013  Sunday - 739 surfdays
I am near Sines. The place is a bit protected from the NW swell. For me this just the right size.

S Torpe

Almost High water.


04  November  2013  Monday - 740 surfdays
S Torpe again. More wind, but swell OK.

Tuesday I looked again, but the swell was now close out. So I drowe back to Sagres.

Pit stop in Carrapateira on the way  to Sagres

06  November  2013  Wednsday - 741 surfdays
Beliche. Not too good. Now I am packing to go on a vacation toMallorca.
26  November  2013  Tuesday - 742 surfdays

First surf day after I arrived yesterday. Mareta. I did not get the best timing and missed the best. Nights are down to 4 deg C Days are sunny and 18 Deg. Weak wind.

Longboarder doing rail grab.  More photos

27  November  2013  Wednsday - 743 surfdays

First I went to Tonel. Not very good. Then Mareta. Here the waves were justt right for me. I was popping up without knee support several times. I am doing easy squat thrust exersize several times a day. That is helping.  Also I am concentrating on popping up in exact the right moment. Which is just when the board starts  gliding down the wave, I think. It feels right. Also I try to paddle in such a way that the board is high on the wave when this happens.
Lets see how my back feels tomorrow.

28  November  2013  Thursday - 744 surfdays
Mareta again. I am still popping up the correct way.....Half the times.  I feel good about it.
29  November  2013  Friday - 745 surfdays
Mareta again. Beautifull weather. Not many surfers. Cold and clear.

01  December  2013  Sunday - 746 surfdays
Mareta. Swell not very good. Lots of sol, but low temp. Nite 5 deg day 15 deg.
02  December  2013  Monday - 747 surfdays

First Amado, then Cordoama. Nice swell and offshore wind, but only a few peaks working due to low swell.

Top photo, Amado. Middle and low photo Cordoama
04  December  2013 Wednesday - 748 surfdays

.Amado . Only small swell, and only one peak working, which off course was a bit crowded. It was offshore wind, and the swell shape looked great, but it was actually difficult to catch them. Still very sunny.

05  December  2013 Thursday - 749 surfdays
Mareta. Swell from East. I was in the water a long time , but had only a few good waves.

Tonel. Interesting because it shows the sand bars. On  the far side of the big island you get a stront rip current. I was caught in it the other day and the strength was unusual  ...

06  December  2013 Friday - 750 surfdays

Mareta. Actually a bit  bumpy and the peaks are very close to the shore. That forces me to  do a fast pop up. I am doing 3 x 15  ( simplified )squat thrust every day to build up some muscle. And it is helping.

07  December  2013 Saturday - 751 surfdays

Tonel. I waited most of the day for the right moment, which never came. Strong rip and lots of white water. Tired me out .

Still nice and sunny days. No wind today, so I was walking around in T/shirt. Nights down to 10 deg C

08  December  2013 Sunday - 752 surfdays

Castelejo. Today I had my best surf day ever. I was catching swell at the peak furthest out to sea , and surfed all the way to the beach, several times. Then I was given the best place at the peak , by the other surfers. I guess they wanted to study how I could surf all the way to the beach, and they barely made it 50 meters.

Well, I hope they found it out, I would like to know myself.

Surf camp. I am still using the summer awning , and it is mid December.

09  December  2013 Monday - 753
Another great day. At Amado beach. I am starting to get the hang of the turns

Great swell. Sun is shining. No surfers.

After surf i was served the Amado special burger

14  December  2013 Saturday - 755
After some days with wind and rainI am back surfing . The 2 last days at Mareta

Tonel and Mareta. Which one would you choose??

15  December  2013 Sunday - 756

Tonel again twice. Nice warm and sunny day, some people sitting on the beach enjoying the sun. Waves actually quite big. My wave count was less than 5 waves for the day.

16 / 17 / 18  December  2013 Tuesday - 759
Mareta. Especially today the waves were good quality.

Beliche has been popular as well the last days.

My Selfie for the day. Mareta

20 December I flew to Mallorca
26  December  2013 Tuesday - 760

A great day for surfing at Can Pastilla. Sets up to 6 feet. I rented a 8 Feet beginners board. And I could surf with it without problems.
When a local surfer said that the biggest sets were for the best surfers, and pointed at me, I felt very proud.


Our local surf bar. We sat in the sun all afternoon. Quite good for end Dec.

27  December  2013 Friday - 761

Can Pastila. Swell up to 5 feet. I had to rent a SUP of 10 feet. I used it without the paddle. It worked. But now I am getting my glass longboard down.

28  December  2013 Sabado - 762

Below is a screen shot from this morning. I got my 9 feet 2 inch board and have now placed it in storage at El Niño surf center, situated in Hotel El Cid in Can Pastilla. www.paddlesurfmallorca.com.
At one time we were 3 normal surfers and 23 SUP, so it was crowded at the peak. However everybody are very friendly. The swell kept rising during the day. I was surfing some of the biggest set, popping up in one sweep. It was a good day.

30  December  2013 Monday - 763
Can Pastilla Paddel surfing.
Year end. 154 days of surf.