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Diary   2025

 

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Start of year surf days 2816
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January   2025.. Surf sessions end of month. 04 / 04 ..
10..07..15..17.. 
Amado. Zav. Mareta Typical winter surf. 
 
February  2025.. Surf sessions  end of month. 08 / 12
02..03..04..05..10..12..16.19.. 
 
 
Above a extra wide body board that was created by gluing rails from a softboard to a exsisting board made in Polyester. So far only tested once. More info will follow
Below some video from the month. My car was broken down and waiting for parts. I used my cycle to take boards to the nearby beaches.

Also I purchased a surf mat. One of the video is from surf mat surfing, which I have taken a liking to.
my_diary_1/2025/250220matsurf.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/241224mart.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250217surfcycle1.mp4
Marts 2025.. Surf sessions  end of month.  13/25
02..06..19..23..
Sa 17 I drove to Conil de Frontera. Weather very rainy and windy.
19-03 Surf in Fuente Gallo with surf mat . 1.5 m waves. Got 2 very good waves.
23-03 Rain several days. However today dry. Still windy. Got in the water in El Palmar forcast 1.2-2 m 7s 500 KJ. I could not get outthrough the waves as far as I liked, but got 2 wavs anyway. Surf mat.

Photos above eft to right:Fuente de Gallo..El Palmar..Park in El Palmar.
24-3 Wine frm SW getting less. Did the best surf in Fuente de Gallo. Wave 1.1m 100 KJ
25-3.Surf Main beach at Conil. Best around high water. 0.6-1.0 m , quite good
26-3. Conil beach 0-0.3 m 20 KJ. Too weak wave.
27-3. Conil again 0.3-0.6 m 30 KJ Got a lot of waves. Wind arriving afternoon around 2 pm. messing it up.
I also checked El Palmar. This beach seems to work best around low water with small waves.
In general I think spring is a difficult time to get waves in this area. Sept - Oct supposed to be better. I have been in tis area severalmntimes and several times suffering from lot of rain and wind / waves from SW direction which is not good.
Fall is supposed to be better.
30-3 Mareta Big bodyboard
31-3 Mareta
Blow a clip from the best day.
I brought a 7.6 x 25 1/2 x 3 ..90 Liters Zeus soft board-.
my_diary_1/2025/250302fuentegallo.mp4
 
 
April 2025 .. Surf sessions  end of month. 24/49
01..02..03..05--06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..16..17..19..20..21..23--24..25--26..27..28..29..
01..21 Surf beaches around Sagres. From 24 Malhao S Torps and Cactus. Had some great waves in Cactus beach.
250428cactus.mp4 surfing with 7.6 Zeus
250411casteljoe.mp4  Wide bodyboard
 
May 2025  .. Surf sessions  end of month. 18/67
04..05..06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..16..18..20..21..25..27..28..30
The 20 of May I started heading North along the coast. First stop Porto Covo, where I surfed Cactus beach abd bstayed at Vizir camping. day 22 and 23 I was staying at Campingir in Peniche. No noncense camping. In a 2 bed Bugalow. I was very happy. plenty space . 3 Km frm Balear Beach.
Unfortunately a lot of wind. I did not get into the water.
My next stop 3 nights in a Bungalow at Campingir in Pedro de Moel- Very good price. Had a surf there, but it is a open beach and even if the forcast was 1 m, it was difficult for me to get back on the beach. next morning helicopters and ships patrolling alongvthe coast. 2 young brothers had gone missing.
27 June arrive Figueras de Foz. First I tried with Bodyboard, but difficult getting out. Last day I used my longboard . Waves vere smaller and I was surfing the best wave is the area.
The 1 of June I arrived at Louero in Galicien. I had rented a old stone house at the beach. The waves here are often very good. I was luckey also this time.
The 5 of June I arrived San Vicente I got 8 days surf there. I had got some information from a Paipogroup about some surfers that surfed prone with longboards. It was from the 1980..90. So I had to try that. It was a surprising pleasant surf. Good speed, because during pop up I tend to stand too far back and that way breake. Other beginners do the same, And old slower surfers like me.
During the last year I have been making manny board for prone surfing. Mainly longer softboards where I cut a foot away from the tail. Some I also glued on more rail. It worked good, with steep shorebreak, that I could not else surf, but for more mellow waves a board 8..9 foot long work better, and It is easier and faster to paddle.
One day I used a home made soft  9 foot x 27 1/2  wide and 3 to 4 inch thick for prone surfing. It worked very good.  I was so happy that I eventually found some records of prone surfing with other boards that the standard Bodyboard, you see in all shops.

The link to the Interview: https://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/PaulGross/PGross_Interview.shtml

my_diary_1/2025/250612paiposvincente.mp4  ( Videoclip of me surfing a 7.6 softboard Prone )


The car packed..The car packed more..Cactus beach
Vizir camping..Vizir Camping..Piniche
Campingir peniche..Campingir Pedro de Moel..Pedro de Moel beach.
Bungalow Figueras de Foz..Peniche..Campingir peniche
 
 
June  2025.. Surf days  end of month. 18 / 85
01..02..03..05..06..07..08..09..11..13..17..18..19..20..24..25..27..29..
First surf in Louero. Good as always. I stayed in an old stone house right by the beach. After I drove to San vicente. There I rented a Bungalow at El Rosal. 10 days later it was time to return to Sagres.

During the trip I had an interesting chat with a FB Paipogroup, who was helping me by pointing at some Interviews with Shapers. One of them Poul Gross had shaped a Paipoboard El Paipo Grande. 8.8 feet x 23 x 3 that was surfed prone.

I liked the idea and started to surf my long boards of 9 feet and a shorter of 7.6 feet in prone position. I felt more in control of the board and having more speed. Video show me prone surf a 7,6 board.
my_diary_1/2025/250612paiposvincente.mp4
Back in Sagres I started to review my collection of boards.
Louero..My apartment..View from Apartment 
 
Gerra beach.. Beach by camping ..Half way through Spain returning back to Sagres
July 2025.. Surf days end of month. 23/108
01..03..04..06..07..08..09--10--14..15..16..17..18..19..20..21..22..23..24..27..28..29..31
During the month I recieved a 10 foot x 25 x 4 123 liter. of the brand Walden Mega Magic. Great board. It surprised me from the first try . Catching unbroken waves. Surfing along the waves. Mainly prone, but also some stand up.

I have started a gym program to strengten legs and ankels . Pop up is still with knee support.
 
August 2025.. Surf sessions  end of month.  18  / 126
01..02..03..04..07..08..09..10..12..13..14..15..16..17..18..19..20..23..
Using 10 foor Walden Mega Magic as much as possible. Training pop up also at home every day. I think it is going to be the type where the knees are used.
Below 3 video with 10 foot board.
my_diary_1/2025/250816amadoalongw10ft.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250813zavstand10ft.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250731amadostand10ft.mp4
 
September 2025 Surf sessions  end of month. 15 / 141
Sep1. I am on my way to France where I am to stay 10 days in my tent . at Camping st Martin Moliet et Maa.




Photo from top left: First night stop, countryhotel near Ecora.2.Hotel in Navarra. 3.Camping in Moliet.
4.Beach in San Vicente. 5.Hotel near Salamanca on returntrip. 6. Surf Festival Foz.
7. Morning mist Camping Orbitur Foz. 8.Amado Beach I am back.

October 2025  Surf sessions  end of month.   18 / 160
Surfing in Sagres area.
 
November 2025 Surf sessions  end of month.   14 / 174
During the month I started with  a very varied exerzise program. To music from some of my favorite rock groups, I was dansing along . Moving is as manny ways as Icould figure out.2 x 20 minutes a day. Getting older means also muscles not used start to enter a state named Atrophy. The body contain 600 muscles. Those not used, you loose. My idea is, jump around, to some nice music and hopefully reach them all.
I could feel my balance was improving fast.
 
 
 
 
December 2025 Surf sessions  end of month.   -- / 174
In the beginning of December I was surfing my 10 Ft longboard. I felt my balance ws almost fully recovered, now.
 
 
December 2025.. Surf sessions  end of month  -- /--- Total year 3000 est.