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Start of year surf days 2816
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January 2025.. Surf sessions end of month. 04 / 04 .. |
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10..07..15..17.. |
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Amado. Zav. Mareta Typical winter surf. |
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02..03..04..05..10..12..16.19.. |
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Above a extra wide body board that was created by gluing rails from a
softboard to a exsisting board made in Polyester. So far only tested
once. More info will follow Below some video from the month. My car
was broken down and waiting for parts. I used my cycle to take boards to
the nearby beaches.
Also I purchased a surf mat. One of the
video is from surf mat surfing, which I have taken a liking to.
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my_diary_1/2025/250220matsurf.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/241224mart.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250217surfcycle1.mp4
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02..06..19..23.. |
Sa 17 I drove to Conil de Frontera. Weather very rainy and windy.
19-03 Surf in Fuente Gallo with surf mat . 1.5 m waves. Got 2 very good
waves. 23-03 Rain several days. However today dry. Still windy. Got
in the water in El Palmar forcast 1.2-2 m 7s 500 KJ. I could not get
outthrough the waves as far as I liked, but got 2 wavs anyway. Surf mat.
  
Photos above eft to right:Fuente de Gallo..El Palmar..Park in El Palmar. |
24-3 Wine frm SW getting less. Did the best surf in Fuente de Gallo.
Wave 1.1m 100 KJ 25-3.Surf Main beach at Conil. Best around high
water. 0.6-1.0 m , quite good 26-3. Conil beach 0-0.3 m 20 KJ. Too
weak wave. 27-3. Conil again 0.3-0.6 m 30 KJ Got a lot of waves. Wind
arriving afternoon around 2 pm. messing it up. I also checked El
Palmar. This beach seems to work best around low water with small waves.
In general I think spring is a difficult time to get waves in this area.
Sept - Oct supposed to be better. I have been in tis area severalmntimes
and several times suffering from lot of rain and wind / waves from SW
direction which is not good. Fall is supposed to be better. 30-3
Mareta Big bodyboard 31-3 Mareta Blow
a clip from the best day. I brought a 7.6 x 25 1/2 x 3 ..90 Liters
Zeus soft board-. |
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my_diary_1/2025/250302fuentegallo.mp4 |
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01..02..03..05--06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..16..17..19..20..21..23--24..25--26..27..28..29.. |
01..21 Surf beaches around Sagres. From 24 Malhao S Torps and Cactus.
Had some great waves in Cactus beach.
250428cactus.mp4 surfing with 7.6 Zeus
250411casteljoe.mp4 Wide
bodyboard |
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04..05..06..07..08..09..10..11..12..13..16..18..20..21..25..27..28..30 |
The 20 of May I started heading North along the coast. First stop Porto
Covo, where I surfed Cactus beach abd bstayed at Vizir camping. day 22
and 23 I was staying at Campingir in Peniche. No noncense camping. In a
2 bed Bugalow. I was very happy. plenty space . 3 Km frm Balear Beach.
Unfortunately a lot of wind. I did not get into the water. My next
stop 3 nights in a Bungalow at Campingir in Pedro de Moel- Very good
price. Had a surf there, but it is a open beach and even if the forcast
was 1 m, it was difficult for me to get back on the beach. next morning
helicopters and ships patrolling alongvthe coast. 2 young brothers had
gone missing. 27 June arrive Figueras de Foz. First I tried with
Bodyboard, but difficult getting out. Last day I used my longboard .
Waves vere smaller and I was surfing the best wave is the area. The 1
of June I arrived at Louero in Galicien. I had rented a old stone house
at the beach. The waves here are often very good. I was luckey also this
time. The 5 of June I arrived San Vicente I got 8 days surf there. I
had got some information from a Paipogroup about some surfers that
surfed prone with longboards. It was from the 1980..90. So I had to try
that. It was a surprising pleasant surf. Good speed, because during pop
up I tend to stand too far back and that way breake. Other beginners do
the same, And old slower surfers like me. During the last year I have
been making manny board for prone surfing. Mainly longer softboards
where I cut a foot away from the tail. Some I also glued on more rail.
It worked good, with steep shorebreak, that I could not else surf, but
for more mellow waves a board 8..9 foot long work better, and It is
easier and faster to paddle. One day I used a home made soft 9
foot x 27 1/2 wide and 3 to 4 inch thick for prone surfing. It
worked very good. I was so happy that I eventually found some
records of prone surfing with other boards that the standard Bodyboard,
you see in all shops. The link to the Interview:
https://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/PaulGross/PGross_Interview.shtml
my_diary_1/2025/250612paiposvincente.mp4 ( Videoclip of me
surfing a 7.6 softboard Prone )
  
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The car packed..The car packed more..Cactus beach
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Vizir camping..Vizir Camping..Piniche |
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Campingir peniche..Campingir Pedro de Moel..Pedro de Moel beach. |
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Bungalow Figueras de Foz..Peniche..Campingir peniche |
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01..02..03..05..06..07..08..09..11..13..17..18..19..20..24..25..27..29..
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First surf in Louero. Good as always. I stayed in an old stone house
right by the beach. After I drove to San vicente. There I rented a
Bungalow at El Rosal. 10 days later it was time to return to Sagres.
During the trip I had an interesting chat with a FB Paipogroup, who
was helping me by pointing at some Interviews with Shapers. One of them
Poul Gross had shaped a Paipoboard El Paipo Grande. 8.8 feet x 23 x 3
that was surfed prone.
I liked the idea and started to surf my
long boards of 9 feet and a shorter of 7.6 feet in prone position. I
felt more in control of the board and having more speed. Video show me
prone surf a 7,6 board.
my_diary_1/2025/250612paiposvincente.mp4 Back in
Sagres I started to review my collection of boards. |
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Louero..My apartment..View from Apartment |
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Gerra beach.. Beach by camping ..Half way through Spain returning
back to Sagres |
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01..03..04..06..07..08..09--10--14..15..16..17..18..19..20..21..22..23..24..27..28..29..31 |
During the month I recieved a 10 foot x 25 x 4 123 liter. of the brand
Walden Mega Magic. Great board. It surprised me from the first try .
Catching unbroken waves. Surfing along the waves. Mainly prone, but also
some stand up.
I have started a gym program to strengten legs and
ankels . Pop up is still with knee support. |
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01..02..03..04..07..08..09..10..12..13..14..15..16..17..18..19..20..23.. |
Using 10 foor Walden Mega Magic as much as possible. Training pop up
also at home every day. I think it is going to be the type where the
knees are used. Below 3 video with 10 foot board.
my_diary_1/2025/250816amadoalongw10ft.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250813zavstand10ft.mp4
my_diary_1/2025/250731amadostand10ft.mp4 |
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Sep1. I am on my way to France where I am to stay 10 days in my tent .
at Camping st Martin Moliet et Maa. |
  
  
 
Photo from top left: First night stop, countryhotel near Ecora.2.Hotel
in Navarra. 3.Camping in Moliet. 4.Beach in San Vicente. 5.Hotel near
Salamanca on returntrip. 6. Surf Festival Foz. 7. Morning mist
Camping Orbitur Foz. 8.Amado Beach I am back.
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Surfing in Sagres area. |
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During the month I started with a very varied exerzise program. To
music from some of my favorite rock groups, I was dansing along . Moving
is as manny ways as Icould figure out.2 x 20 minutes a day. Getting
older means also muscles not used start to enter a state named Atrophy.
The body contain 600 muscles. Those not used, you loose. My idea is,
jump around, to some nice music and hopefully reach them all. I could
feel my balance was improving fast. |
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December 2025 |
In the beginning of December I was surfing my 10 Ft longboard. I felt my
balance ws almost fully recovered, now.
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