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Diary   2014 - 2

 

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03. Jun  2014 Tuesday 795    St Giron Plage..

I am on a trip with the caravan. driving information First surf place was to be Saint Girons Plage some 80 Km north from Biarritz. I surfed twice yesterday and once today. I overworked my shoulder doing garden work on Mallorca, so I am starting carefully. Else I can say there are some pretty good waves at the moment and only few surfers. The camping Tourterelles has direct access to the beach. And a paved walk as well. However it is a very big camp site and as the season starts i think things will change dramatically.

Saint Girons Plage France
Sunset. The swell is getting bigger, with almost 3 meters tomorrow. I will have a day off.
 
05. Jun  2014 Thursday 796  surf days  St Giron Plage
It was still rough today, but I surfed twice. I can walk to the beach carrying my surf board. The sun is shining and it is 25 degree. The night was down to 10 degree. Not many surfers. 5 to 10.  Some surf school activity, but they do not get far away from the beach
 
6. Jun  2014 Friday 807  surf days  ( surf days corrected )   St Giron Plage
The near perfect day. Swell about 3 feet. I was having  several good waves riding along the wall.
 
9. Jun  2014 Monday 808  St Giron Plage
Still surfing Saint Giron Plage. I did not have a fantastic day. Need to get used to the fact that the peaks are quite far off shore, and there are strong rips.But the surf is here. Just have to read the waves right.
 
10 Jun  2014 Tuesday 809  St Giron Plage
Surfing all day at St Giron Plage. Very bumpy, but  enough 5 feet swell to save the day.
 
11 and 12 Jun 2014 Wednesday and Thursday. 811 surfdays.  St Giron Plage
Especially Thursday was good with small clean swell. But the following day was a flat calm and I decided  to move on.
 
27 Jun 2014
I am now in Den Hag. On Kijkduin camping. Walking distance to the beach. There are designated surf areas during the summer, and it is more kite and windsurfers here.
I did see 1 surfer out, and he had some white water fun.
The beach by Den Hag
The beach by den Hag. In the back ground Schreveningen
 
07 July 2014 Monday surfday 812  Hvide Sande
I was surfing at the beach 4 km South from Hvide Sande. Located in Denmark at the North sea coast. The swell just big enough to catch some wave. Unfortunately tomorrow less. The place is very nice. Camping right to the beach. With some more swell there will be lots of good peaks and  few surfers I think.
Denmark has 300 + Km sandy North sea Coast
 Evening swell.
Surf camp Denmark 2014
 
09 July 2014 Wednsday surfday 813  Hvide Sande  DK
Surfing small swell in offshore wind. Right in front of the camp site. I am the only surfer out.
Not a lot, but lets see tomorrow.
 
14 July 2014 Monday surfday 814 Klitmoeller (  Cold Hawaii )  DK
 It was quite flat today. The only peak was covered by surf school elements.
    
16 July 2014 Wednsday Surfday 815 Klitmoeller (  Cold Hawaii )  DK
Surfing twice in 3-4 feet swell. Unfortunately quite windy also
Photo is from Tuesday. Wind is SW. Wednesday the wind was W to NW and bigger waves.
 
28 July 2014 Norway West Coast
I am waiting for the swell to arrive on the West coast of Norway
 
30 July 2014 Wednsday Surfday 816  Norway West coast
Today the swell arrived. 5 to 7 feet.  I was surfing twice. The caravan is parked 50 metres from the beach. I can sit in my sofa and follow the swell. Could not be better.
 
03  Sept   L Emelie Plage   Surfday 819  France Aquitane
That was a long spell without surf. I am now back at the Atlantic coast South of Bordeaux. I managed to get 3 days of surf here. It is quite a difficult shore break. Hardly any surfers. Tomorrow I plan to go to Cap Ferret. Sunny up to 28 deg.
 
04 Sept 2014 Truc Vert Cap Ferret    Surfday 820
A popular spot. Nice swell  today.
 
05 Sept Truc Vert  Surfday 821
The beach is walking distance from the Camping. There is a small beach bar to get refreshments and the swell is just right for me.  Sun shine 24 Deg.
 
06 Sept 2014 Truc Vert Surfday 822
Today I figured it out. With the wave size as it is now. There are good waves from 2 hours before low water. I was there earlier, and when the waves started, I was alone at the peak for a while.
 
09 10 11 Sept 2014 Mimizan Surfday 825
Only 1 - 2 feet swell. But a very nice beach. I am at the South beach. Easy to park, several beach bars. Sun is shining. But no waves.
 
15 and 16 Sept Viux Giron Plage  Surfday  827
Pretty small swell. Very hot 31 deg C. Then today came the swell, but then it was too high.
 
19 to 29  Sept Between Bearritz and St. jean de Luz - No surfing
One of the manny small bays in the area
Getharry is a very nice small sea side town, with what looked a fine peak.
 
Looking from Getharry towards Bidart
Just south from Biarritz. Good longboard beach, but u have to walk down from parking , or be early to get parking on the costal road.
 
03 Oct Conil de Frontera Surfday  828
I am now on Costa de Luz. The stretch of Andalucian coast between Cadiz and Gibraltar.
The swell was a lot better than forcast. I sort of enjoyed myself. A little surprised how I was popping up as without effort.
2 photos from Conil beach.
 
4-5-6-7-8-11 October  El Palmer Surfday 834
There is a lack of swell at the moment. With a long board you juuust manage to catch some wave. However afternoon tp 28 Deg and lot of sun. This situation was the  same all week.
Several surf schools and board rental.
Less surfers at the other beaches around Conil de Frontera
Sunday at El Palmer.
 
24 October  Mallorca Son Serra de  Marina Surfday 835
A great day. After 2 days of Mistral, with 6 m waves in the strait btween Menorca and Sardinia, the wind  was easing off, and there was a clean mellow 5bfeet swell.
I was  using my ULI travel board, which is  8 feet 4 inch. It worked well as it was pumped up very hard. 24 psi. With a thickness of almost 4 inch it was very difficult to get out through the white water.
Showing off with my travel board on Sa Marina beach on a quiet day
 
28  29  31 October  El Palmar  Costa de Luz  Surfday 838
Strong east wind, so surf is not very good. While waiting for better surf I look at the surrounding area.
Standing by the light house West from Conil. This headland is sheltering the beaches from Westerly winds, Especially Fuente de Gallo
Novo Santi Petri looking towards Roche point
Trefalgar  -  Los Caños de Meca. Good shelter when big West swell. Here East wind.
 
02 November  El Palmar  Costa de Luz  Surfday 839
Perfect swell today. I was on Fuente de Galo beach.. Not many surfers. Still sunny and  25 deg +.  I almost did not go out, because some big sets were coming in now and again. And then it turned out to be all right.
 
04 November  El Palmar  Costa de Luz  Surfday 840
After a try at Fuente de Gallo, that was no good, I went to El Palmar beach. Pretty bumpy. 3 feet swell. Supposed to be the last summer day. Tonight rain will pass, and then colder tp.
 
05 November  El Palmar  Costa de Luz  Surfday 841
El Palmar in the morning. 5+ feet peaks and strong current. I was soon worn out. Afternoon Fuente de Gallo. Very nice swell.
I found a trick. Spread the fingers when paddeling out. Less strain on the shoulders.
Surf school
Now I understand why I was tiring out. Some sets were pretty big.
Fuente de Gallo was more...me
 
06 November  El Palmar  Costa de Luz  Surfday 842
Another day with a lot of surfing . First Fuente de Gallo. Then El Palmar. Today I was looking up at the waves, and not at the tip of the surf board. I hope it will last.
SUP at Fuente de Gallo
 
08 09 10  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surfday 845
3 Good days. This area is very good for long board.. Unfortunately rain is arriving tomorrow and West and South West winds.
Conil de Frontera
Good long board wave.
 
12  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 846
The rain passed, but left a 6 feet choppy sea. I was looking at it a lot. Then decided to give it a try. When I am not sure what to expect, I use my Jeff Clark surf west.
It was not the size of the waves or the power in the wave, but to constant change of shape that made it impossible to surf. I soon gave up.
Even the shot boarders, had a difficult time.
 
13  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 847
An other day with choppy  sea. I was out, and managed to catch several waves. Then the  rain started, and I called it the day.
 
14  November  Barrosa  Costa de Luz  Surf day 848
Still forecast of 6 feet Westerly  swell. To big for me. So I went to Borrosa beach, which is supposed to be sheltered. However I never made it out through the beach break. It ended up a white water riding day.
 
15  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 849
Big Saturday. I could not get through the shore break. My good luck, because it was sets of 3 m.
 
16  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 850
Today was better. Sunday and many surfers. I found a spot a little away. There was a set every 10 minutes. But I was alone. It was all for me. Tomorrow there may still be some swell. Then the wind will go East, and I will say good bye , and go to Sagres.
 
17  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 851
The perfect day. When I started it was glossy as well
 
18 and 19  November  Conil area  Costa de Luz  Surf day 853
Yesterday was just small waves. Today set of up to 5 feet. I was enjoying this and doing some pop up at the right time. Only 3 surfers out, so plenty of space. The wind is going to be strong East for several days. Tomorrow I start driving to Sagres.
Parking at Conil beach. Quiet this time of the year. Tp up to 25 deg C. Water 19 deg C.
 
25 November  Sagres  Surf day 854
Today first surf day in Sagres. I was starting with a long warm up. 100 belly muscle. 20 slow pop up on the floor. Then I went to Beliche and did the stairs. Yesterday I needed 3 stops to get to the top, today I was already down to 2 stops. Surfing was good. A sunny  day  with no wind and 20 deg C
Surfer to the left is angling a lot more than surfer  in right  side. I was keeping an aye on him, and he was doing very well.
Nice old bus conversion
 
26 November  Sagres  Surf day 855
Up early. Lots of  warm up exercise. Then a walk up the stairs from Beliche. I settled for Tonel. The sand is back. At least some of it. It was bumpy, but towards higher tide, it cleaned up, and I got 2  impressive waves.
The interesting thing is the tent on top of red van.
 
02 December  Sagres  Surf day 857
The last 2 days I was using up all my energy. First at Mareta, and then at Beliche. Today I was just looking around.
Amado today. Only 5 surfers out and great swell. I did not get out as I was out  of energy.
Tonel will be fine tomorrow.
 
04 December  Sagres  Surf day 859
The last 2 days at Beliche. Especially today was good, because I was early and first one in the water.
 
05 to 12 December  Sagres  Surf day 864
05 Beliche. Photo below is from Arrifana on the 06 of Dec
08 Tonel  I was very careful not to be run over by these waves. Managed 3 waves. Photo below.
09 Beliche. Photo below is from Tonel. I was surfing the more quiet Beliche.
10 Tonel. Still nice weather .Photo below North West swell of 1.5 m. A very good day, until some SUP came along.
11 Zavial  Photo below is from Tonel. Just too rough. So I went to else where.
12 Mareta. Nice and quiet. In Nazare XXL waves.
 
97 surf days in 2014. I am packing to go to Mallorca for x-mas