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Diary   2024

 

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Start of year surf days 2592  ..

January   2024.. Surf sessions end of month. 20 / 20     
01..03..04..06..07..09..11..14..18..19..20..21..23..24..25..26..27..29..30..31
Most days  I was using my Paipobards. For prone surfing. I feel very comfortable wuith the boards. They are easy to use, and safe. I am surprised how well the bigger 6 feet x 24  x  4 inch is performing. Even catching waves from just 2 feet
 
February  2024.. Surf sessions  end of month. 17 / 37
03..12..13..15..17..16..18..19..19..20..20..21..23..25..27..28..29..
A month using the 6 feet softboard a lot. Surfing some biggish waves as well. Mareta SE swell. I remember this was very difficult with a longboard, because the break is close to the beach. On one occation I broke a board here. With the 6 feet softboard it is a lot easyer.
February had a lot of sunny days.
my_diary_1/2024/240130mareta.mp4
 
Marts 2024.. Surf sessions  end of month.  16/53
01..03..07..11..14..16..18..17..19..20..22..23..24..28..29..30..
A trip to S Torp again. 2 nd trip this year. Surf mainly with 6 ft soft top. I now have 2 of them. I am also trying to surf knee surf boarding.

My friends from Germany came for a visit during Easter. Very nice.

It is clear that nobody never saw befor a surfer using a 6 ft softboard for prone surfing. And people are notising how it perform well in windy messy conditions.
my_diary_1/2024/240207tonel.mp4
my_diary_1/2024/240202maretashort.mp4
 
April 2024 .. Surf sessions  end of month. 22/75
01.02.03.04.09.10.11.12.13.15.16.17.18.19.20.22.24.25.26.28.29.30
During the month I was trying to make a 5.6 feet glass bodyboard wider , by adding foam to the rails. The result was not working well. The board was very difficult to paddle.
I came across a 9 feet x 24 x 4 longboard. Price was very low, so I thought I would try. Catching waves, but wobble . Too boxy rails and paralell rails I think.
my_diary_1/2024/2404209ftcalifornia.mp4  9 feet longboard in Cordoama.
May 2024  .. Surf sessions  end of month. 22/97
3.3.4.5.7.8.9.10.11.12.15.16.17.18.19.20.21.23.24.25.26.27
May was a great month. Nice waves, warm and sunny.
I was in S.Torps twice. I was staying at Porto Covo camping in a studio type apartment..
The board building project of the month was to make a 23 inch wide soft board wider.I cut rails from a 6 feet long soft top and glued on with Polyurethane glue.
The board was 6.5 long and worked very well in surfing messy foamy waves. We have a lot of that stuff here. However I had concerns if the board was strong enough, because it took some beating.
I am getting quite a collection.
End of the month I found a 26 inch wide softboard that I cut to 6.5 in length. Board is 4 inch thick and stringers ( 2 ) 3.5 to almost 4 . So board seems stronger.
Gopro cam waterdamaged.
23 inch board with extra rail
my_diary_1/2024/240502cordoamagood.mp4
my_diary_1/2024/240519amadogood.mp4
 
June  2024.. Surf days  end of month. 18 / 109
07..08..09..10..13..15..17..18..19..20..22..24..25..26..27..28..29..30.
I was on a trip with surfboards and tent along the coast until Vaqueira. 200 km South from Porto. Surf several beaches from Nazare to Figuer de Foz, where I have never surfed before. It is not crowded this time a year
Back in Sagres I ordered a Flowt Tanker 8 feet. I should soon be my favorite board.
 
 
July 2024.. Surf days end of month. 23/132
1.2.3.4.5.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16..17.18.19.20.21.25.26.28.29.30.
I was surfing with the new 8 foot boardboard most days. I thought first a b8 feet board was too big for kneesurfing. When I look at youtube the kneeboards are a lot shorter.
But I had got info about other that used 8 feet ,wide, and thick boards. And a surfer up the coast were using a SUP board. 10 feet x 32 Inch wide. An other posted me , how he cut 2 boards along the rails and glued one new board together that was 25 inch wide.
I learned using my "kneesurfboard" very quickly. I could make a lot more manoevering. I surfed more "wall" in one session than I normally do in a month. There was no way back, I was hooked. It was a big "reanimation", just what I needed.
my_diary_1/2024/240722amadoslow.mp4
my_diary_1/2024/240726amado1.mp4
 
August 2024.. Surf sessions  end of month.   10 / 142
01.09.10.11.12.13..France 4 surf
 
September 2024 Surf sessions  end of month. 16 / 158
5.6.7.8.9.10.11.13.14.16.17.21.22.23.27.30.
Arrive San Vicente 5 sept. Stay at Los Laos in apartment. Kneesurf mainly. Started to have pain in right hip area. I supposed it was a bursitis.
18 left and drowe South.had to go through Spain as wildfires were heavy in Portugal . Arrived Figueras de Foz 21. Stayed at camping Gale in a nice bungalow.
Did a overnight in Porto Covo . Then I was back in Sagres.
October 2024  Surf sessions  end of month.   24 / 182
4.5.7.8.9.10.12.13.14.16.17.18.19.20.21.22.23.24.25.26.27.28.29.31 
A typichal autumn. Start surfing Port de Moss and other South facing beaches. Bodyboarding and kneeboarding. I also purchased a Zeus 7.6 that iw 26 inch wide. I was having some pain in right leg and hip that I thought could be related to the 37 inch wide 8 feet Flowt board .
November 2024  Surf sessions  end of month.   22 / 204
1.3.4.5.7.8.9.10.11.13.14.17.18.19.20.21.22.23.24.25.26.27.
On 2 November I purchased a 8 feet soft top. From that I cut 2 x 2 inch rail. I then glued these pieces of rail to the 9 feet California suft board that I purchaced in the spring. i have noticed that I was "forgetting" to surf standing up. I thought a wider board woud be good to recover the skill.
I didnt take long then the board was finished and ready to test.. The board even looked smart . First test was 18 of November. The board was very easy to handle. Pop up was still there.i found I could knesurf board as well. It was great to paddle also. The board could surf quite big waves, say 1 m +. I surfed messy waves and white water and reform waves.
25 of Nov. I went to S. Torpes for more test. and stayed there for almost 2 weeks.
I stayed at Porto Covo  Camping in a bungalow. The weather was sunny and 20+ during the day. Moderate waves about 1 m and lots of surf.
I often start kneesurfing if the wave looks complicated, meaning in most cases steep. Then standing. However i also did nice snakes turning the board along the wave and then popping up in one jump. After a week I started shuffeling towards the nose.
There are other ways to get a wide longboard. Some use SUP boards, but in my opinion the outline of a SUP is too curved, if you want a board that is stable and having high directional stability
VIDEO:
my_diary_1/2024/241203kactusbeach.mp4  testing board in West coast of Portugal
 
 
December 2024.. Surf sessions  end of month  20 /24 Total year 2816
The stay in S. Torps continued until 7 of December. Then I drove back to Sagres.
The rest of month was surfing in beaches around Sagres. Around X mas it got very crowded, and it was not without accidents.
By end of month I started to use bodyboards more. The 6 feet long ones. 24 inch  26 inch  and 28 inch wide. I think I should try to make some even wider.