This web is
about me, Torben, who at the age of 59 started to learn surfing.
The story is available as e-book and paperback as well on Amazon .com
download for free in pdf.
Learning to surf was something I wanted to
learn, since I visited Hawaii some 25 years back.
I feel that I have
had huge benefits from this activity so far, in the way of improving
physically and in general well being, and like to pass on the message.
In 2016 I read an article about doctor Guillaume Barucq, GP en
Biarritz, who is using surfing to treat over weight, high
blod pressure, back pain and joint pain, depression and anxiety.
With positive results. Read his book "Surf Thérapie". It
is the exersize in the surf zone and the effect of the sea water,
creating the result.
Other book suggestions..
Now it is 2018 and
I am 69. With 1200 surf days logged so far.
Before you read on please read the
No way, you are thinking. All the people are so young in that sport.
Which is true, because what is most widely known is short boarding. The
original surf board was a lot longer. 12 feet was not uncommon. Boards
more that 9 feet are called long boards and all ages can learn to ride
such a board providing you are fit and have a good health.
Today you can get soft boards of good
quality. They have a soft top and rail and a hard bottom. It is a
lot safer than a hard epoxy or polyester board. If you are more than 50
it is well worth the investment. You will be a slow learner and it will
take a while before you outgrow that board.
After 4 years of surfing I purchased
a soft top board. I should have done it long before.
I started at the age of 58. I am not a specialist yet. Actually I will
never become a specialist surfer.
If not it does not matter that
much. I am having a good
time learning. I go camping at nice places and
meet great people.
When I am visiting
a surf spot, I am in the water some 3 hours a day, and after a while you
start to feel the difference.
The way I did it.
4 month of swimming
twice a week and Pilate gymnastic 3 times a week.. Classess of I hour.
I then read 2 books.
Learn to surf by James MacLaren and
Longboarder's start up by